Ingredient review
Zinc Glycyrrhetinate
INCI: ZINC GLYCYRRHETINATE
A gentle, dual-action ingredient that combines licorice root's anti-inflammatory power with zinc's protective benefits to calm redness and support skin recovery.
In plain English
Zinc Glycyrrhetinate is a skin-soothing ingredient made by combining zinc with a compound from licorice root called glycyrrhetinic acid. It helps reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation without being harsh. Think of it as a calming helper for sensitive or stressed skin, often found in products designed for acne, rosacea, or post-treatment recovery.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Potentially useful with some tradeoffs
The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.
Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.
- Source
- semi synthetic
- Evidence
- moderate
- Irritation
- low
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Useful, but context matters
Zinc Glycyrrhetinate is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Zinc Glycyrrhetinate.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
lowLess likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
moderateThere is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.
What it is
A semi-synthetic salt formed by binding zinc ions to glycyrrhetinic acid, a triterpenoid from licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra). It appears as a fine white to off-white powder and is used in skincare for its anti-inflammatory and skin-protective properties.
How it works
It works by inhibiting enzymes that trigger inflammation (like 5-lipoxygenase and cyclooxygenase), reducing the production of pro-inflammatory molecules. The zinc component also provides antioxidant protection and supports skin barrier function by helping regulate oil production and calming irritation.
Pros
Gentle anti-inflammatory
Helps calm redness and irritation without the harshness of some other anti-inflammatory ingredients, making it suitable for daily use on sensitive skin.
Dual-action protection
Combines the soothing effects of licorice root with zinc's barrier-supporting and antioxidant properties, offering more than just inflammation control.
Cons and cautions
Moderate research support
While promising, the evidence for Zinc Glycyrrhetinate is not as extensive as for ingredients like niacinamide or green tea extract, so results may vary.
Potential for variable efficacy
Its effectiveness depends heavily on the formulation and concentration used; not all products will deliver noticeable calming benefits.
Best for
- People with sensitive or easily irritated skin
- Those dealing with redness from acne, rosacea, or environmental stress
Use caution if
- Individuals allergic to licorice root or zinc compounds
Usage tips
Safety summary
Zinc Glycyrrhetinate is considered safe for topical use in cosmetics at typical concentrations (0.1–1%). It has low irritation and comedogenic potential. Allergic reactions are rare but possible in individuals sensitive to licorice or zinc. Avoid contact with eyes and broken skin.
Research notes
Research on Zinc Glycyrrhetinate is moderate, with studies showing anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects in vitro and in small human trials. It is less studied than some other soothing ingredients, but existing evidence supports its use for calming redness and irritation.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- 0.1% to 1%
- Regulatory status
- Approved as a cosmetic ingredient in the EU, US, and many other regions. Not classified as a drug ingredient, so it cannot claim to treat or cure skin diseases.
- Common uses
- Soothing creams, Anti-acne treatments, Post-procedure skincare, Sensitive skin formulas
- Environmental note
- Zinc is a naturally occurring mineral, but mining and processing can have environmental impacts. Licorice root is typically sustainably harvested, though overharvesting is a concern in some regions.
Good to know
- Zinc Glycyrrhetinate is often used in post-procedure skincare to minimize irritation after treatments like chemical peels or microdermabrasion.
- It is generally considered non-comedogenic and safe for acne-prone skin.
Common questions
What is Zinc Glycyrrhetinate in beauty products?
Zinc Glycyrrhetinate is a skin-soothing ingredient made by combining zinc with a compound from licorice root called glycyrrhetinic acid. It helps reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation without being harsh. Think of it as a calming helper for sensitive or stressed skin, often found in products designed for acne, rosacea, or post-treatment recovery.
What does Zinc Glycyrrhetinate do in a beauty product?
It works by inhibiting enzymes that trigger inflammation (like 5-lipoxygenase and cyclooxygenase), reducing the production of pro-inflammatory molecules. The zinc component also provides antioxidant protection and supports skin barrier function by helping regulate oil production and calming irritation.
Is Zinc Glycyrrhetinate safe for most people?
Zinc Glycyrrhetinate is considered safe for topical use in cosmetics at typical concentrations (0.1–1%). It has low irritation and comedogenic potential. Allergic reactions are rare but possible in individuals sensitive to licorice or zinc. Avoid contact with eyes and broken skin.
Who should be careful with Zinc Glycyrrhetinate?
Individuals allergic to licorice root or zinc compounds
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.