Ingredient review

Glycyrrhetinic Acid

INCI: Glycyrrhetinic Acid

A gentle, plant-derived ingredient that helps calm redness and irritation without the side effects of stronger anti-inflammatories.

beautyskincaresoothing agent

In plain English

Glycyrrhetinic acid is a natural compound from licorice root that helps soothe skin. It works by calming the skin's inflammatory response, which can reduce redness, puffiness, and sensitivity. Unlike some harsh anti-inflammatory ingredients, it is generally very gentle and well-tolerated, making it a popular choice for sensitive or reactive skin types.

Review score

Safety, usefulness, and evidence

4.3Good
4.3/ 5

Strong fit for many routines

The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.

Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.

Source
natural
Evidence
moderate
Irritation
low
Clogging risk
low
How reviews are scored

Quick decision guide

Easy yes for most routines

Glycyrrhetinic Acid is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.

Plain-English read

Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.

  1. Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Glycyrrhetinic Acid.
  2. Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
  3. Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.

Score terms in plain English

Irritation risk

low

Less likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.

Clogging risk

low

Less likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.

Evidence level

moderate

There is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.

What it is

Glycyrrhetinic acid is a triterpenoid compound extracted from the root of the licorice plant (Glycyrrhiza glabra). It is the active aglycone form of glycyrrhizin, meaning it is the part of the molecule that provides most of the anti-inflammatory and soothing benefits.

How it works

In a cosmetic product, glycyrrhetinic acid works by inhibiting enzymes (like phospholipase A2 and cyclooxygenase) that trigger the production of pro-inflammatory molecules. This helps reduce redness, swelling, and irritation in the skin. It also has mild antioxidant properties and can help support the skin barrier by reducing water loss.

Pros

Gentle on skin

Unlike some anti-inflammatory ingredients (like corticosteroids), glycyrrhetinic acid is very mild and unlikely to cause thinning or long-term side effects when used in skincare.

Multi-functional

Beyond calming redness, it also offers mild antioxidant protection and can help improve the appearance of uneven skin tone over time.

Cons and cautions

Mild potency

For significant or acute inflammation, glycyrrhetinic acid may not be strong enough on its own and might need to be combined with other soothing ingredients.

Cost

Natural licorice-derived ingredients can be more expensive than synthetic soothing agents, which may be reflected in the product price.

Best for

  • People with sensitive or easily irritated skin
  • Those dealing with redness or mild rosacea
  • Anyone looking for a gentle anti-inflammatory ingredient

Use caution if

  • Individuals with a known allergy to licorice or related plants

Usage tips

Look for products where glycyrrhetinic acid is listed in the first half of the ingredient list for a meaningful concentration.
Pair with other calming ingredients like niacinamide or green tea extract for enhanced soothing benefits.
Use consistently as part of your daily routine for best results—it works gradually.

Safety summary

Glycyrrhetinic acid is considered very safe for topical use. It has low irritation and comedogenic potential. Allergic reactions are rare but possible in individuals sensitive to licorice. Avoid use on broken or severely damaged skin unless directed by a professional.

Research notes

Multiple in vitro and clinical studies support the anti-inflammatory and soothing effects of glycyrrhetinic acid. It has been shown to reduce erythema (redness) and improve skin barrier function. However, most studies are small or industry-funded, so evidence is considered moderate rather than strong.

Common label clues

Typical concentration
0.1% to 2%
Regulatory status
Approved for cosmetic use in the EU, US, and many other regions. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel has deemed it safe for use in leave-on and rinse-off products at typical concentrations.
Common uses
Serums, Moisturizers, Eye creams, Post-procedure balms
Environmental note
Licorice root is a renewable plant resource, but overharvesting can be a concern. Look for brands that source from sustainable farms or use certified organic licorice.

Good to know

  • Glycyrrhetinic acid is different from glycyrrhizic acid (or glycyrrhizin), which is sweeter and can cause side effects in high oral doses. In topical skincare, glycyrrhetinic acid is considered safe.
  • It is often used in post-procedure skincare to help calm skin after treatments like chemical peels or microdermabrasion.

Common questions

What is Glycyrrhetinic Acid in beauty products?

Glycyrrhetinic acid is a natural compound from licorice root that helps soothe skin. It works by calming the skin's inflammatory response, which can reduce redness, puffiness, and sensitivity. Unlike some harsh anti-inflammatory ingredients, it is generally very gentle and well-tolerated, making it a popular choice for sensitive or reactive skin types.

What does Glycyrrhetinic Acid do in a beauty product?

In a cosmetic product, glycyrrhetinic acid works by inhibiting enzymes (like phospholipase A2 and cyclooxygenase) that trigger the production of pro-inflammatory molecules. This helps reduce redness, swelling, and irritation in the skin. It also has mild antioxidant properties and can help support the skin barrier by reducing water loss.

Is Glycyrrhetinic Acid safe for most people?

Glycyrrhetinic acid is considered very safe for topical use. It has low irritation and comedogenic potential. Allergic reactions are rare but possible in individuals sensitive to licorice. Avoid use on broken or severely damaged skin unless directed by a professional.

Who should be careful with Glycyrrhetinic Acid?

Individuals with a known allergy to licorice or related plants

Research sources

Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) – Safety AssessmentOpenPubMed – Anti-inflammatory effects of glycyrrhetinic acidOpenINCI Decoder – Glycyrrhetinic AcidOpen

Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.