Ingredient review

Methyl Acetylglycyrrhetinoyl Hydroxyprolinate

INCI: METHYL ACETYLGLYCYRRHETINOYL HYDROXYPROLINATE

A gentle, multi-tasking ingredient that combines soothing properties from licorice root with collagen-supporting amino acids, ideal for sensitive or aging skin.

beautyskincaresoothing agent

In plain English

This ingredient is a lab-made molecule that joins a compound from licorice root (known for calming redness and irritation) with hydroxyproline, an amino acid that helps support collagen in the skin. In plain terms, it aims to soothe skin while also giving a gentle boost to the skin's structure, making it a good choice for those who want both calming and anti-aging benefits without harsh actives.

Review score

Safety, usefulness, and evidence

4.0Good

4.0/ 5

Potentially useful with some tradeoffs

The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.

Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.

Source: semi synthetic
Evidence: moderate
Irritation: low
Clogging risk: low

How reviews are scored

Quick decision guide

Useful, but context matters

Methyl Acetylglycyrrhetinoyl Hydroxyprolinate is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.

Plain-English read

Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.

Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Methyl Acetylglycyrrhetinoyl Hydroxyprolinate.
Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.

Score terms in plain English

Irritation risk

low

Less likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.

Clogging risk

low

Less likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.

Evidence level

moderate

There is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.

What it is

A semi-synthetic ester formed by combining acetylglycyrrhetinic acid (a derivative of licorice root) with methyl hydroxyproline (a modified amino acid). It is designed to be more stable and skin-friendly than raw licorice extract.

How it works

The glycyrrhetinic acid portion works by calming inflammatory pathways in the skin, reducing redness and sensitivity. The hydroxyproline part is a building block for collagen, and when applied topically, it may help signal skin cells to maintain or produce more collagen, improving firmness and texture over time.

Pros

Dual-action soothing and collagen support

Unlike many single-purpose ingredients, this one both calms irritation and provides building blocks for collagen, making it efficient for anti-aging and sensitive skin routines.

Very low irritation potential

Clinical and anecdotal reports indicate it is well-tolerated even by those with rosacea or eczema-prone skin, with minimal risk of stinging or redness.

Cons and cautions

Modest evidence base

While the parent compounds are well-studied, specific human trials on this exact molecule are limited, so its benefits are inferred rather than proven in large-scale studies.

May be less potent than dedicated actives

For significant collagen boosting, dedicated peptides or retinoids may offer more dramatic results; this ingredient is better suited as a supportive, gentle option.

Best for

People with sensitive or reactive skin looking for a soothing ingredient
Those seeking gentle anti-aging support without strong actives like retinol

Use caution if

Individuals with known allergy to licorice root derivatives (rare)

Usage tips

Use in a serum or moisturizer after cleansing and before heavier creams to maximize absorption.

Pair with sunscreen during the day, as collagen-supporting ingredients work best when skin is protected from UV damage.

Safety summary

Considered safe for topical use at concentrations up to 1%. No significant irritation, sensitization, or toxicity has been reported in cosmetic applications. As with any ingredient, patch test if you have very sensitive skin.

Research notes

The anti-inflammatory activity of glycyrrhetinic acid is well-documented in dermatology. Hydroxyproline's role in collagen synthesis is also established. However, direct clinical studies on this specific ester are sparse; most evidence comes from ingredient supplier studies and formulation testing.

Common label clues

Typical concentration: 0.1% to 1%
Regulatory status: Approved for cosmetic use in the EU, USA, and other major markets. No known restrictions at typical use levels.
Common uses: Anti-aging serums, Soothing moisturizers, Eye creams
Environmental note: Synthesized in a lab, reducing the need for large-scale licorice harvesting. Biodegradability data is not widely published.

Good to know

This ingredient is often found in 'peptide-like' or 'botanical peptide' products, though it is not a true peptide.
It is stable in a wide pH range (4–7), making it compatible with most skincare formulations.

Common questions

What is Methyl Acetylglycyrrhetinoyl Hydroxyprolinate in beauty products?

What does Methyl Acetylglycyrrhetinoyl Hydroxyprolinate do in a beauty product?

Is Methyl Acetylglycyrrhetinoyl Hydroxyprolinate safe for most people?

Who should be careful with Methyl Acetylglycyrrhetinoyl Hydroxyprolinate?

Individuals with known allergy to licorice root derivatives (rare)

Research sources

CosIng (EU Cosmetic Ingredient Database)Open PubMed - Glycyrrhetinic acid anti-inflammatory reviewOpen INCIDecoder - Ingredient profileOpen

Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.