Ingredient review
Glycyrrhetinyl Stearate
INCI: Glycyrrhetinyl Stearate
A gentle, oil-friendly derivative of licorice root that helps calm redness and soothe sensitive skin without irritation.
In plain English
Glycyrrhetinyl stearate is a modified version of a compound found in licorice root. It is designed to be oil-soluble so it can be easily added to creams and lotions. Once on your skin, it works to reduce redness and calm irritation, making it a popular choice for products aimed at sensitive or reactive skin. Think of it as a gentle peacekeeper for your skin barrier.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Potentially useful with some tradeoffs
The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.
Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.
- Source
- semi synthetic
- Evidence
- moderate
- Irritation
- low
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Useful, but context matters
Glycyrrhetinyl Stearate is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Glycyrrhetinyl Stearate.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
lowLess likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
moderateThere is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.
What it is
Glycyrrhetinyl stearate is the stearic acid ester of 18β-glycyrrhetinic acid, a triterpenoid compound naturally found in licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra). The esterification makes it more stable and oil-soluble, allowing it to blend into emulsions and leave-on products more effectively than the water-soluble parent compound.
How it works
It works primarily by inhibiting enzymes involved in the inflammatory cascade, such as phospholipase A2 and cyclooxygenase, which reduces the production of pro-inflammatory mediators. This helps calm visible redness, stinging, and sensitivity. It also supports the skin barrier by reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) when used consistently.
Pros
Gentle calming action
Helps reduce visible redness and stinging without causing irritation, making it ideal for sensitive skin routines.
Formulator-friendly
Its oil-soluble nature means it blends easily into creams, lotions, and balms, so you can find it in many soothing products.
Cons and cautions
Modest evidence base
Most research focuses on the parent compound glycyrrhetinic acid; fewer studies specifically examine the stearate ester, so its standalone efficacy is less documented.
Potential for lower potency
The ester modification may reduce its anti-inflammatory activity compared to the free acid form, though it improves stability and formulation compatibility.
Best for
- People with sensitive, easily irritated skin
- Those dealing with occasional redness or rosacea-prone skin
- Anyone looking for a gentle, non-irritating soothing ingredient
Use caution if
- Individuals with a known allergy to licorice root or its derivatives
Usage tips
Safety summary
Glycyrrhetinyl stearate is considered safe for topical use in cosmetics. It has low irritation and sensitization potential, and no significant toxicity has been reported at typical use levels. As with any ingredient, patch testing is recommended for those with very sensitive skin or known allergies.
Research notes
Research on glycyrrhetinyl stearate is limited compared to its parent compound, glycyrrhetinic acid. Existing studies and formulation data support its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. Most evidence comes from in vitro and formulation stability studies, with some clinical observations in soothing products.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- 0.1% to 1%
- Regulatory status
- Approved for use in cosmetics in the EU, US, and many other regions. Generally recognized as safe when used at typical concentrations.
- Common uses
- Moisturizers, Serums, Sunscreens, After-shave products, Sensitive skin formulations
- Environmental note
- Derived from licorice root, a renewable plant source. The esterification process is standard and does not raise significant environmental concerns.
Good to know
- It is often used in products marketed for sensitive or redness-prone skin.
- Unlike pure licorice extract, this derivative is not water-soluble, so it stays in the oil phase of a formula.
Common questions
What is Glycyrrhetinyl Stearate in beauty products?
Glycyrrhetinyl stearate is a modified version of a compound found in licorice root. It is designed to be oil-soluble so it can be easily added to creams and lotions. Once on your skin, it works to reduce redness and calm irritation, making it a popular choice for products aimed at sensitive or reactive skin. Think of it as a gentle peacekeeper for your skin barrier.
What does Glycyrrhetinyl Stearate do in a beauty product?
It works primarily by inhibiting enzymes involved in the inflammatory cascade, such as phospholipase A2 and cyclooxygenase, which reduces the production of pro-inflammatory mediators. This helps calm visible redness, stinging, and sensitivity. It also supports the skin barrier by reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) when used consistently.
Is Glycyrrhetinyl Stearate safe for most people?
Glycyrrhetinyl stearate is considered safe for topical use in cosmetics. It has low irritation and sensitization potential, and no significant toxicity has been reported at typical use levels. As with any ingredient, patch testing is recommended for those with very sensitive skin or known allergies.
Who should be careful with Glycyrrhetinyl Stearate?
Individuals with a known allergy to licorice root or its derivatives
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.