Ingredient review

TEA-Lauroyl/Myristoyl Aspartate

INCI: TEA-LAUROYL/MYRISTOYL ASPARTATE

A gentle, amino-acid-based surfactant that effectively cleanses while being kind to sensitive skin.

beautyskincarecleanser

In plain English

This ingredient is a mild cleansing agent made from aspartic acid (an amino acid) and fatty acids from coconut or palm oil. It helps remove dirt and oil from your skin without stripping away its natural moisture barrier, making it a popular choice for gentle, non-irritating cleansers.

Review score

Safety, usefulness, and evidence

4.0Good

4.0/ 5

Potentially useful with some tradeoffs

The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.

Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.

Source: semi synthetic
Evidence: moderate
Irritation: low
Clogging risk: low

How reviews are scored

Quick decision guide

Useful, but context matters

TEA-Lauroyl/Myristoyl Aspartate is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.

Plain-English read

Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.

Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging TEA-Lauroyl/Myristoyl Aspartate.
Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.

Score terms in plain English

Irritation risk

low

Less likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.

Clogging risk

low

Less likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.

Evidence level

moderate

There is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.

What it is

TEA-Lauroyl/Myristoyl Aspartate is a surfactant created by combining aspartic acid with lauric and myristic fatty acids (typically derived from coconut or palm oil), then neutralizing with triethanolamine (TEA). It belongs to the family of amino-acid-based surfactants known for their mildness.

How it works

In a cosmetic product, this ingredient works by reducing the surface tension between water and oil, allowing dirt and excess sebum to be rinsed away. Its large molecular structure and amino-acid base make it less penetrating and less disruptive to the skin's natural barrier compared to harsher sulfates.

Pros

Very gentle on skin

Its amino-acid structure makes it much less likely to cause irritation or dryness compared to sodium lauryl sulfate, ideal for daily use on sensitive or reactive skin.

Preserves moisture barrier

Unlike harsh detergents, it cleans without stripping the skin's natural oils, helping maintain a healthy barrier function and reducing transepidermal water loss (water evaporation from the skin).

Cons and cautions

Lower foam volume

It produces a creamy, low-foam lather rather than big bubbles. Some users accustomed to high-foam cleansers may feel it isn't cleaning effectively, even though it is.

Potential sustainability issues

The fatty acids are often sourced from palm oil, which can be linked to deforestation. Look for products with RSPO-certified palm oil or coconut-derived alternatives.

Best for

People with dry or sensitive skin
Those looking for a sulfate-free cleanser

Use caution if

Individuals with known TEA sensitivity
Those seeking very high foam

Usage tips

Use in a lukewarm water rinse-off cleanser for best results.

Pair with a moisturizer afterward, especially if you have very dry skin.

Store products containing this ingredient in a cool, dry place to maintain stability.

Safety summary

TEA-Lauroyl/Myristoyl Aspartate is considered safe for use in rinse-off cosmetics at typical concentrations. The TEA component is a concern only in high concentrations or leave-on products, but in cleansers it is well-tolerated. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel has deemed similar amino-acid surfactants safe as used.

Research notes

Amino-acid-based surfactants are well-studied for their mildness and low irritation potential. Studies show they cause less damage to skin barrier proteins compared to traditional anionic surfactants like SLS. However, specific clinical data on TEA-Lauroyl/Myristoyl Aspartate alone is limited, with safety largely inferred from the broader class.

Common label clues

Typical concentration: 1–15% in rinse-off products
Regulatory status: Approved for use in cosmetics by the FDA and EU CosIng database. TEA is restricted to a maximum concentration of 5% in leave-on products in the EU.
Common uses: Facial cleansers, Body washes, Shampoos, Micellar waters
Environmental note: This surfactant is biodegradable, but its fatty acid source (often palm oil) may have environmental impacts. Choosing products with certified sustainable palm oil or coconut-derived alternatives can reduce the footprint.

Good to know

Amino-acid surfactants like this one are often preferred in 'low-pH' cleansers that match the skin's natural acidity.
TEA (triethanolamine) is a pH adjuster; at low concentrations in rinse-off products, it is considered safe by regulators.

Common questions

What is TEA-Lauroyl/Myristoyl Aspartate in beauty products?

What does TEA-Lauroyl/Myristoyl Aspartate do in a beauty product?

Is TEA-Lauroyl/Myristoyl Aspartate safe for most people?

Who should be careful with TEA-Lauroyl/Myristoyl Aspartate?

Individuals with known TEA sensitivity Those seeking very high foam

Research sources

Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) - Amino Acid SurfactantsOpen EU CosIng Database - TEA-Lauroyl/Myristoyl AspartateOpen PubMed - Mildness of amino acid surfactantsOpen Environmental Working Group (EWG) - Surfactant safetyOpen

Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.