Ingredient review
TEA-C12-13 Alkyl Phosphate
INCI: TEA-C12-13 Alkyl Phosphate
A mild-ish synthetic surfactant that helps cleanse without stripping, but may still irritate very sensitive skin.
In plain English
This ingredient is a type of soap-like molecule that helps water mix with oil and dirt so they can be rinsed away. It's often used in cleansers and washes to create a gentle foam. While it's considered milder than some traditional sulfates, it can still be drying or irritating for people with very sensitive or compromised skin.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Potentially useful with some tradeoffs
The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.
Main practical flags: irritation is moderate; clogging risk is low.
- Source
- synthetic
- Evidence
- moderate
- Irritation
- moderate
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Useful, but context matters
TEA-C12-13 Alkyl Phosphate can be useful, but watch for some irritation potential.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging TEA-C12-13 Alkyl Phosphate.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
moderateCan bother some users, especially with frequent use, damaged skin, or strong companion ingredients.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
moderateThere is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.
What it is
TEA-C12-13 Alkyl Phosphate is a synthetic surfactant made from a phosphate group attached to a medium-chain fatty alcohol (C12-13) and neutralized with triethanolamine (TEA). It acts as a cleansing agent and emulsifier.
How it works
In a product, it reduces the surface tension between water and oil, allowing oils and dirt on the skin to be lifted away and rinsed off. It also helps keep oil and water-based ingredients blended together in a stable formula.
Pros
Milder than sulfates
Compared to sodium lauryl sulfate, this surfactant is less stripping and can be a better choice for daily cleansing.
Good foaming ability
It produces a satisfying lather that helps spread the product easily, making the cleansing experience pleasant.
Cons and cautions
Potential irritation
Even though it's milder, it can still disrupt the skin barrier if used too frequently or on already irritated skin.
TEA concerns
Triethanolamine (TEA) can form nitrosamines (potential carcinogens) if combined with nitrosating agents, though cosmetic formulas are regulated to minimize this risk.
Best for
- People with normal to oily skin looking for a gentle cleanser
- Those who prefer sulfate-free cleansing options
Use caution if
- Individuals with very sensitive, eczema-prone, or damaged skin barriers
Usage tips
Safety summary
Generally recognized as safe for use in rinse-off cosmetics at typical concentrations. The main concern is potential skin irritation for sensitive individuals and the theoretical formation of nitrosamines from TEA, which is tightly regulated. Overall, it is considered a moderate-risk ingredient.
Research notes
Studies on alkyl phosphates indicate they are milder than many anionic surfactants like SLS. The safety of TEA in cosmetics has been reviewed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel, which concluded it is safe as used when formulated to avoid nitrosamine formation.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- Typically 1–10% in rinse-off products
- Regulatory status
- Approved for use in cosmetics in the US (FDA), EU, and many other regions. TEA is restricted to a maximum concentration of 5% in rinse-off products and 2.5% in leave-on products in the EU.
- Common uses
- Cleansers, Facial washes, Body washes, Shampoos
- Environmental note
- As a synthetic surfactant, its biodegradability varies. Some alkyl phosphates are considered less environmentally persistent than certain other surfactants, but comprehensive data is limited.
Good to know
- This ingredient is often found in 'sulfate-free' cleansers, but 'sulfate-free' doesn't always mean non-irritating.
- TEA is a common pH adjuster and emulsifier in cosmetics.
Common questions
What is TEA-C12-13 Alkyl Phosphate in beauty products?
This ingredient is a type of soap-like molecule that helps water mix with oil and dirt so they can be rinsed away. It's often used in cleansers and washes to create a gentle foam. While it's considered milder than some traditional sulfates, it can still be drying or irritating for people with very sensitive or compromised skin.
What does TEA-C12-13 Alkyl Phosphate do in a beauty product?
In a product, it reduces the surface tension between water and oil, allowing oils and dirt on the skin to be lifted away and rinsed off. It also helps keep oil and water-based ingredients blended together in a stable formula.
Is TEA-C12-13 Alkyl Phosphate safe for most people?
Generally recognized as safe for use in rinse-off cosmetics at typical concentrations. The main concern is potential skin irritation for sensitive individuals and the theoretical formation of nitrosamines from TEA, which is tightly regulated. Overall, it is considered a moderate-risk ingredient.
Who should be careful with TEA-C12-13 Alkyl Phosphate?
Individuals with very sensitive, eczema-prone, or damaged skin barriers
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.