Ingredient review
Sucrose Pentaerucate
INCI: SUCROSE PENTAERUCATE
A gentle, non-greasy emollient derived from sugar and erucic acid that helps soften and smooth skin without clogging pores.
In plain English
Sucrose pentaerucate is a fancy name for a molecule made by combining sugar (sucrose) with a fatty acid found in rapeseed oil (erucic acid). In skincare, it works as an emollient, meaning it helps soften and smooth the skin by filling in the tiny gaps between skin cells. Unlike some heavy oils, it feels light and non-greasy, making it a good choice for people with oily or combination skin who still want moisture. It also helps other ingredients spread more evenly on the skin.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Potentially useful with some tradeoffs
The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.
Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.
- Source
- semi synthetic
- Evidence
- moderate
- Irritation
- low
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Useful, but context matters
Sucrose Pentaerucate is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Sucrose Pentaerucate.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
lowLess likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
moderateThere is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.
What it is
Sucrose pentaerucate is a semi-synthetic ester created by esterifying sucrose with erucic acid, a long-chain fatty acid naturally found in rapeseed oil. It belongs to the family of sugar esters, which are known for being mild and well-tolerated.
How it works
When applied to the skin, sucrose pentaerucate forms a thin, breathable film that reduces water loss and improves skin softness. Its molecular structure allows it to sit on the skin's surface without penetrating deeply, which minimizes the risk of irritation. It also acts as a texture enhancer, giving products a silky, non-tacky feel.
Pros
Lightweight feel
Unlike heavier oils, sucrose pentaerucate absorbs quickly without leaving a greasy residue, making it ideal for daytime use or under makeup.
Low irritation potential
Clinical and safety reviews indicate it is very well-tolerated, even on sensitive or acne-prone skin, with a low risk of allergic reactions.
Cons and cautions
Limited research
Compared to classic emollients like glycerin or squalane, there are fewer independent studies on sucrose pentaerucate's long-term skin benefits.
Potential allergen source
Erucic acid is derived from rapeseed oil, which is a rare but possible allergen for some individuals.
Best for
- People with oily or combination skin seeking lightweight moisture
- Those with sensitive skin looking for a gentle emollient
Use caution if
- Individuals with a known allergy to rapeseed or erucic acid derivatives
Usage tips
Safety summary
Sucrose pentaerucate has a strong safety profile with low irritation and comedogenic potential. It is non-toxic and non-sensitizing in standard cosmetic concentrations. The main caution is for individuals with rare rapeseed allergies.
Research notes
Research on sucrose pentaerucate is moderate. Studies focus on its emollient properties and skin compatibility, with no major safety concerns reported. It is less studied than some traditional emollients but is supported by general safety data on sugar esters.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- 0.5% to 5%
- Regulatory status
- Approved for use in cosmetics by the FDA and the European Commission. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel has deemed sugar esters like this one safe as used in cosmetics.
- Common uses
- Moisturizers, Lip products, Eye creams, Anti-aging formulations
- Environmental note
- Sucrose pentaerucate is derived from renewable resources (sugar and rapeseed oil) and is considered biodegradable, making it a more sustainable choice compared to some petroleum-based emollients.
Good to know
- Sucrose pentaerucate is often used in 'skin-identical' formulations because sugar esters mimic natural skin lipids.
- It is considered biodegradable and is often produced from renewable plant sources.
Common questions
What is Sucrose Pentaerucate in beauty products?
Sucrose pentaerucate is a fancy name for a molecule made by combining sugar (sucrose) with a fatty acid found in rapeseed oil (erucic acid). In skincare, it works as an emollient, meaning it helps soften and smooth the skin by filling in the tiny gaps between skin cells. Unlike some heavy oils, it feels light and non-greasy, making it a good choice for people with oily or combination skin who still want moisture. It also helps other ingredients spread more evenly on the skin.
What does Sucrose Pentaerucate do in a beauty product?
When applied to the skin, sucrose pentaerucate forms a thin, breathable film that reduces water loss and improves skin softness. Its molecular structure allows it to sit on the skin's surface without penetrating deeply, which minimizes the risk of irritation. It also acts as a texture enhancer, giving products a silky, non-tacky feel.
Is Sucrose Pentaerucate safe for most people?
Sucrose pentaerucate has a strong safety profile with low irritation and comedogenic potential. It is non-toxic and non-sensitizing in standard cosmetic concentrations. The main caution is for individuals with rare rapeseed allergies.
Who should be careful with Sucrose Pentaerucate?
Individuals with a known allergy to rapeseed or erucic acid derivatives
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.