Ingredient review
Sodium Polygamma-Glutamate Crosspolymer
INCI: SODIUM POLYGAMMA-GLUTAMATE CROSSPOLYMER
A next-generation humectant that forms a flexible, breathable film to lock in moisture without the stickiness of traditional hyaluronic acid.
In plain English
This ingredient is a modified version of polyglutamic acid, a natural amino acid chain. By crosslinking the molecules, it creates a flexible, invisible film on your skin that holds onto water and slows down moisture evaporation. Unlike some thick gels, it feels lightweight and non-sticky, making it great for layering under makeup or sunscreen.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Strong fit for many routines
The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.
Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.
- Source
- biotech
- Evidence
- moderate
- Irritation
- low
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Easy yes for most routines
Sodium Polygamma-Glutamate Crosspolymer is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Sodium Polygamma-Glutamate Crosspolymer.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
lowLess likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
moderateThere is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.
What it is
A biotechnologically produced, crosslinked polymer of gamma-glutamic acid. It is derived from fermented plant sources (often soy or wheat) and then chemically crosslinked to form a larger, film-forming molecule.
How it works
When applied to the skin, the crosspolymer forms a thin, flexible film that physically blocks water from escaping (reducing transepidermal water loss, or TEWL). At the same time, its glutamic acid units attract and hold water molecules, providing a humectant boost. The crosslinking prevents the ingredient from being too sticky or heavy, so it feels comfortable on the skin.
Pros
Superior moisture lock
The crosslinked film holds water on the skin more effectively than many standard humectants, keeping your skin hydrated for hours without feeling heavy.
Comfortable texture
Unlike some film-formers that can feel tight or tacky, this ingredient dries down to a soft, flexible finish that layers well under makeup or sunscreen.
Cons and cautions
Premium price tag
Because it's a biotech ingredient with a specialized production process, products containing it tend to cost more than those using basic humectants like glycerin.
Less research history
Compared to hyaluronic acid or glycerin, there are fewer published studies on its long-term effects and efficacy, though existing data is promising.
Best for
- Anyone looking for a lightweight, non-sticky hydrating ingredient
- People with dehydrated or barrier-compromised skin who want extra moisture retention
Use caution if
- Individuals with known allergies to fermented soy or wheat (though highly purified, trace residues may remain)
Usage tips
Safety summary
Sodium polygamma-glutamate crosspolymer is considered safe for topical use at typical concentrations. It has low irritation and comedogenic potential, and no significant safety concerns have been reported in available studies or regulatory reviews.
Research notes
Research indicates that crosslinked polyglutamic acid derivatives can significantly improve skin hydration and reduce water loss compared to non-crosslinked versions. However, most studies are small or industry-funded, and more independent clinical trials would strengthen the evidence base.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- 0.1% to 2%
- Regulatory status
- Approved for cosmetic use in the EU, US, and other major markets. No specific restrictions beyond general cosmetic safety requirements.
- Common uses
- Serums, Moisturizers, Sheet masks, Eye creams
- Environmental note
- Produced via fermentation using renewable plant substrates, and the crosspolymer is biodegradable, making it a relatively eco-friendly choice.
Good to know
- This ingredient is often used in 'clean beauty' formulations because it is biodegradable and derived from renewable plant sources.
- It can be combined with hyaluronic acid for a double-layer hydration effect.
Common questions
What is Sodium Polygamma-Glutamate Crosspolymer in beauty products?
This ingredient is a modified version of polyglutamic acid, a natural amino acid chain. By crosslinking the molecules, it creates a flexible, invisible film on your skin that holds onto water and slows down moisture evaporation. Unlike some thick gels, it feels lightweight and non-sticky, making it great for layering under makeup or sunscreen.
What does Sodium Polygamma-Glutamate Crosspolymer do in a beauty product?
When applied to the skin, the crosspolymer forms a thin, flexible film that physically blocks water from escaping (reducing transepidermal water loss, or TEWL). At the same time, its glutamic acid units attract and hold water molecules, providing a humectant boost. The crosslinking prevents the ingredient from being too sticky or heavy, so it feels comfortable on the skin.
Is Sodium Polygamma-Glutamate Crosspolymer safe for most people?
Sodium polygamma-glutamate crosspolymer is considered safe for topical use at typical concentrations. It has low irritation and comedogenic potential, and no significant safety concerns have been reported in available studies or regulatory reviews.
Who should be careful with Sodium Polygamma-Glutamate Crosspolymer?
Individuals with known allergies to fermented soy or wheat (though highly purified, trace residues may remain)
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.