Ingredient review
Sodium Polygamma-Glutamate
INCI: SODIUM POLYGAMMA-GLUTAMATE
A powerful, natural humectant that holds more water than hyaluronic acid, making it a standout for dry or dehydrated skin.
In plain English
Sodium polygamma-glutamate is a natural ingredient made by fermenting soybeans. It's a type of protein that acts like a sponge, pulling water into your skin and holding it there. It's often compared to hyaluronic acid, but it can hold even more moisture. Because it's gentle and non-irritating, it's great for sensitive or dry skin. You'll find it in serums, moisturizers, and sheet masks where deep hydration is the goal.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Strong fit for many routines
The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.
Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.
- Source
- biotech
- Evidence
- moderate
- Irritation
- low
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Easy yes for most routines
Sodium Polygamma-Glutamate is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Sodium Polygamma-Glutamate.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
lowLess likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
moderateThere is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.
What it is
Sodium polygamma-glutamate is the sodium salt of poly-gamma-glutamic acid, a natural polymer produced by fermentation of Bacillus subtilis (a type of bacteria found in soil and traditionally used in natto, a Japanese soybean dish). It is a large, water-loving molecule that forms a flexible film on the skin.
How it works
When applied to the skin, it forms a thin, invisible film that traps moisture and prevents water loss. Its long molecular chain can bind many water molecules, giving it a high water-holding capacity. This helps plump the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines, and improve skin barrier function.
Pros
Superior hydration power
Sodium polygamma-glutamate can hold up to 5,000 times its weight in water, outperforming hyaluronic acid in some studies, which means more lasting moisture for your skin.
Gentle on sensitive skin
Unlike some active ingredients that can sting or irritate, this ingredient is very well-tolerated and can be used even on compromised or reactive skin without causing redness.
Cons and cautions
Potential tackiness
In higher concentrations or in formulas without proper texture modifiers, it can leave a slightly sticky or tacky feel on the skin, which may not be ideal for all users.
Less research history
While promising, sodium polygamma-glutamate has fewer long-term human studies compared to hyaluronic acid, so its full range of benefits and interactions are still being explored.
Best for
- People with dry or dehydrated skin looking for intense moisture
- Those with sensitive skin who react to other humectants
Use caution if
- Anyone with a known allergy to fermented soy products (rare, but possible)
Usage tips
Safety summary
Sodium polygamma-glutamate is considered very safe for topical use. It has low irritation and sensitization potential. No significant safety concerns have been reported in cosmetic concentrations.
Research notes
Research shows it is an effective humectant with superior water-binding capacity. Studies indicate it can improve skin hydration and reduce fine lines. However, most studies are small or industry-funded, so more independent research is welcome.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- 0.1% to 1%
- Regulatory status
- Generally recognized as safe for cosmetic use in the US and EU. No specific restrictions beyond standard cosmetic ingredient regulations.
- Common uses
- Serums, Moisturizers, Sheet masks, Eye creams
- Environmental note
- Produced via fermentation, which is a low-energy, renewable process. The ingredient is biodegradable, reducing environmental persistence.
Good to know
- It is biodegradable and derived from renewable sources, making it a more sustainable choice compared to some synthetic humectants.
- It is often used in 'clean beauty' formulations because of its natural fermentation origin.
Common questions
What is Sodium Polygamma-Glutamate in beauty products?
Sodium polygamma-glutamate is a natural ingredient made by fermenting soybeans. It's a type of protein that acts like a sponge, pulling water into your skin and holding it there. It's often compared to hyaluronic acid, but it can hold even more moisture. Because it's gentle and non-irritating, it's great for sensitive or dry skin. You'll find it in serums, moisturizers, and sheet masks where deep hydration is the goal.
What does Sodium Polygamma-Glutamate do in a beauty product?
When applied to the skin, it forms a thin, invisible film that traps moisture and prevents water loss. Its long molecular chain can bind many water molecules, giving it a high water-holding capacity. This helps plump the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines, and improve skin barrier function.
Is Sodium Polygamma-Glutamate safe for most people?
Sodium polygamma-glutamate is considered very safe for topical use. It has low irritation and sensitization potential. No significant safety concerns have been reported in cosmetic concentrations.
Who should be careful with Sodium Polygamma-Glutamate?
Anyone with a known allergy to fermented soy products (rare, but possible)
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.