Ingredient review
SH-Polypeptide-90
INCI: SH-Polypeptide-90
SH-Polypeptide-90 is a soy-derived peptide that may help firm and smooth skin by supporting collagen production, but more human studies are needed to confirm its effects.
In plain English
SH-Polypeptide-90 is a small protein fragment made from soy. In skincare, it's used to signal skin cells to produce more collagen and elastin, which can help reduce fine lines and improve firmness. Think of it as a gentle messenger that tells your skin to act younger. It's generally well-tolerated and unlikely to cause irritation.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Potentially useful with some tradeoffs
The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.
Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.
- Source
- semi synthetic
- Evidence
- moderate
- Irritation
- low
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Useful, but context matters
SH-Polypeptide-90 is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging SH-Polypeptide-90.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
lowLess likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
moderateThere is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.
What it is
SH-Polypeptide-90 is a synthetic peptide derived from soy protein. Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as building blocks for proteins like collagen. This specific peptide is designed to mimic natural signaling molecules in the skin.
How it works
When applied topically, SH-Polypeptide-90 is thought to penetrate the outer layer of skin and bind to receptors on fibroblasts (collagen-producing cells). This binding may stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, helping to improve skin firmness and reduce the appearance of wrinkles over time.
Pros
Gentle anti-aging
SH-Polypeptide-90 offers a mild approach to reducing fine lines without the irritation common with stronger anti-aging ingredients like retinol.
Supports skin structure
By potentially boosting collagen and elastin, it helps maintain skin's firmness and elasticity over time.
Cons and cautions
Limited evidence
Most research on SH-Polypeptide-90 is from lab studies or small trials; large-scale human studies are lacking.
Variable results
Effectiveness can depend heavily on the product formulation and individual skin response, so results may not be dramatic for everyone.
Best for
- People looking for anti-aging benefits with a gentle ingredient
- Those with sensitive skin who want to avoid stronger actives like retinol
Use caution if
- Individuals with soy allergies should check with a dermatologist before use
Usage tips
Safety summary
SH-Polypeptide-90 is considered safe for topical use in cosmetics at typical concentrations. It has a low irritation and comedogenic risk, making it suitable for most skin types, including sensitive skin. Those with soy allergies should exercise caution.
Research notes
Research on SH-Polypeptide-90 is moderate, with in vitro studies showing potential to stimulate collagen synthesis. Human studies are limited but suggest mild anti-aging benefits. More robust clinical trials are needed to confirm efficacy.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- 0.1% to 1% in leave-on products
- Regulatory status
- In the US, SH-Polypeptide-90 is regulated as a cosmetic ingredient and is not subject to FDA pre-market approval. It is generally considered safe when used as directed.
- Common uses
- Anti-aging serums, Firming creams, Eye treatments
- Environmental note
- As a semi-synthetic ingredient derived from soy, its environmental impact depends on soy farming practices. Look for brands that source sustainably if this is a concern.
Good to know
- SH-Polypeptide-90 is often listed near the middle or end of ingredient lists due to low use concentrations.
- It is not the same as pure soy protein; it's a processed peptide fragment designed for better skin penetration.
Common questions
What is SH-Polypeptide-90 in beauty products?
SH-Polypeptide-90 is a small protein fragment made from soy. In skincare, it's used to signal skin cells to produce more collagen and elastin, which can help reduce fine lines and improve firmness. Think of it as a gentle messenger that tells your skin to act younger. It's generally well-tolerated and unlikely to cause irritation.
What does SH-Polypeptide-90 do in a beauty product?
When applied topically, SH-Polypeptide-90 is thought to penetrate the outer layer of skin and bind to receptors on fibroblasts (collagen-producing cells). This binding may stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, helping to improve skin firmness and reduce the appearance of wrinkles over time.
Is SH-Polypeptide-90 safe for most people?
SH-Polypeptide-90 is considered safe for topical use in cosmetics at typical concentrations. It has a low irritation and comedogenic risk, making it suitable for most skin types, including sensitive skin. Those with soy allergies should exercise caution.
Who should be careful with SH-Polypeptide-90?
Individuals with soy allergies should check with a dermatologist before use
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.