Ingredient review
Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate
INCI: POLYGLYCERYL-5 TRIMYRISTATE
A mild, non-irritating emulsifier that helps create stable, creamy textures while also softening the skin.
In plain English
This ingredient is a type of emulsifier made from glycerin and myristic acid (a fatty acid found in coconut oil). It helps mix water and oil together so your lotion or cream stays smooth and doesn't separate. It also has a mild skin-softening effect, making it a good choice for gentle, everyday products.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Strong fit for many routines
The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.
Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.
- Source
- semi synthetic
- Evidence
- moderate
- Irritation
- low
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Easy yes for most routines
Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
lowLess likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
moderateThere is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.
What it is
Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate is a semi-synthetic emulsifier created by esterifying polyglycerin (a chain of glycerin units) with myristic acid, a fatty acid commonly sourced from coconut or palm kernel oil. It belongs to the polyglyceryl ester family, known for being milder than traditional emulsifiers.
How it works
In a cosmetic formula, this ingredient sits at the boundary between oil and water droplets, reducing surface tension so they stay mixed together. This creates a stable, uniform cream or lotion. Additionally, its fatty acid portion can lightly coat the skin, providing a subtle softening and smoothing effect without leaving a greasy residue.
Pros
Very gentle on skin
Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate has a low irritation risk, making it a great choice for sensitive skin types and daily-use products.
Improves product texture
It helps create smooth, creamy formulas that feel luxurious on the skin without being heavy or greasy.
Cons and cautions
Not a primary active ingredient
Its main role is as an emulsifier and texture enhancer, so it won't provide targeted benefits like hydration or anti-aging on its own.
Potential sustainability concerns
Myristic acid is often sourced from palm oil, which can be linked to deforestation unless certified sustainable.
Best for
- Anyone looking for a gentle, non-irritating moisturizer or cleanser
- People with sensitive or reactive skin who want stable formulas without harsh emulsifiers
Use caution if
- Those seeking a dedicated active ingredient for anti-aging or brightening (this is primarily a texture and stability aid)
Usage tips
Safety summary
Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate is considered safe for use in cosmetics. It has low irritation and comedogenic potential, and no significant toxicity concerns have been reported in standard safety assessments. As with any ingredient, patch testing is recommended for those with extremely sensitive skin.
Research notes
Research on polyglyceryl esters indicates they are mild, biodegradable, and effective emulsifiers. Specific studies on Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate are limited, but the broader class is well-documented for safety and efficacy in cosmetic formulations.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- 0.5% to 5%
- Regulatory status
- Approved for use in cosmetics globally, including by the EU CosIng database and the US FDA as a cosmetic ingredient. No known restrictions at typical use levels.
- Common uses
- Moisturizers, Cleansers, Serums, Sunscreens
- Environmental note
- Sourcing of myristic acid may involve palm oil; look for products using RSPO-certified sustainable palm oil or coconut-derived alternatives for a lower environmental footprint.
Good to know
- Polyglyceryl esters are often considered 'clean beauty' alternatives to ethoxylated emulsifiers like polysorbates.
- This ingredient is not water-soluble; it must be incorporated into the oil phase of a formulation.
Common questions
What is Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate in beauty products?
This ingredient is a type of emulsifier made from glycerin and myristic acid (a fatty acid found in coconut oil). It helps mix water and oil together so your lotion or cream stays smooth and doesn't separate. It also has a mild skin-softening effect, making it a good choice for gentle, everyday products.
What does Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate do in a beauty product?
In a cosmetic formula, this ingredient sits at the boundary between oil and water droplets, reducing surface tension so they stay mixed together. This creates a stable, uniform cream or lotion. Additionally, its fatty acid portion can lightly coat the skin, providing a subtle softening and smoothing effect without leaving a greasy residue.
Is Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate safe for most people?
Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate is considered safe for use in cosmetics. It has low irritation and comedogenic potential, and no significant toxicity concerns have been reported in standard safety assessments. As with any ingredient, patch testing is recommended for those with extremely sensitive skin.
Who should be careful with Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate?
Those seeking a dedicated active ingredient for anti-aging or brightening (this is primarily a texture and stability aid)
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.