Ingredient review

PEG-9 Borageate

INCI: PEG-9 Borageate

PEG-9 Borageate is a gentle emulsifier that helps blend water and oil in skincare, with mild skin-conditioning benefits from borage seed oil.

beautyskincareemulsifier

In plain English

PEG-9 Borageate is a semi-synthetic ingredient made by attaching a PEG (polyethylene glycol) chain to borage seed oil. This makes the oil water-soluble, so it can act as an emulsifier—helping water and oil mix in creams and lotions. It also provides some skin-conditioning effects, leaving skin feeling soft and smooth. It is generally considered safe and non-irritating for most skin types.

Review score

Safety, usefulness, and evidence

3.8Good
3.8/ 5

Potentially useful with some tradeoffs

The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.

Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.

Source
semi synthetic
Evidence
moderate
Irritation
low
Clogging risk
low
How reviews are scored

Quick decision guide

Useful, but context matters

PEG-9 Borageate is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.

Plain-English read

Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.

  1. Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging PEG-9 Borageate.
  2. Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
  3. Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.

Score terms in plain English

Irritation risk

low

Less likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.

Clogging risk

low

Less likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.

Evidence level

moderate

There is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.

What it is

PEG-9 Borageate is a PEGylated ester of borage seed oil. It is created by reacting borage seed oil with polyethylene glycol (PEG), resulting in a water-soluble oil derivative that functions as an emulsifier and skin conditioner.

How it works

In a cosmetic product, PEG-9 Borageate sits at the interface between water and oil droplets, reducing surface tension so they mix into a stable emulsion. This prevents separation and gives a smooth, uniform texture. Additionally, the borage oil component can deposit on the skin, providing emollient and conditioning effects.

Pros

Gentle emulsifier

PEG-9 Borageate helps create stable, smooth emulsions without harsh surfactants, making it suitable for sensitive skin formulations.

Skin conditioning

The borage seed oil component provides mild emollient benefits, helping to soften and smooth the skin's surface.

Cons and cautions

Potential impurities

As a PEG derivative, it may contain trace levels of ethylene oxide or 1,4-dioxane if manufacturing is not carefully controlled, though reputable brands ensure purity.

Not natural

Being semi-synthetic, it may not be suitable for consumers seeking 100% natural or organic skincare products.

Best for

  • People with normal to dry skin looking for a gentle emulsifier in moisturizers
  • Those who prefer products with mild, low-irritation ingredients

Use caution if

  • Individuals with known sensitivities to PEG compounds or borage seed oil

Usage tips

Use in formulations at 0.5–5% for stable emulsions without greasiness.
Combine with other emulsifiers like cetearyl alcohol for enhanced stability.
Store products containing PEG-9 Borageate in a cool, dry place to maintain emulsion integrity.

Safety summary

PEG-9 Borageate is considered safe for cosmetic use at typical concentrations. The main concern is potential contamination with ethylene oxide or 1,4-dioxane, but reputable manufacturers purify their ingredients to meet safety standards. It has low irritation and comedogenic risk.

Research notes

Research on PEG-9 Borageate specifically is limited, but studies on PEG derivatives and borage seed oil support its safety and efficacy as an emulsifier and skin conditioner. The CIR has reviewed PEG compounds and found them safe for topical use.

Common label clues

Typical concentration
Typically 0.5–5% in leave-on products
Regulatory status
Approved for use in cosmetics by the FDA and EU CosIng database. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel has evaluated PEG compounds and found them safe when used as directed, with limits on impurities.
Common uses
Moisturizers, Cleansers, Serums, Lotions
Environmental note
PEG compounds are generally biodegradable, but their production involves petrochemical-derived ethylene oxide. Borage oil is plant-derived, making this ingredient a mixed environmental profile.

Good to know

  • Borage seed oil is naturally rich in gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), an omega-6 fatty acid known for its anti-inflammatory properties.
  • PEG-9 Borageate is often used in 'natural' formulations as a milder alternative to synthetic emulsifiers.

Common questions

What is PEG-9 Borageate in beauty products?

PEG-9 Borageate is a semi-synthetic ingredient made by attaching a PEG (polyethylene glycol) chain to borage seed oil. This makes the oil water-soluble, so it can act as an emulsifier—helping water and oil mix in creams and lotions. It also provides some skin-conditioning effects, leaving skin feeling soft and smooth. It is generally considered safe and non-irritating for most skin types.

What does PEG-9 Borageate do in a beauty product?

In a cosmetic product, PEG-9 Borageate sits at the interface between water and oil droplets, reducing surface tension so they mix into a stable emulsion. This prevents separation and gives a smooth, uniform texture. Additionally, the borage oil component can deposit on the skin, providing emollient and conditioning effects.

Is PEG-9 Borageate safe for most people?

PEG-9 Borageate is considered safe for cosmetic use at typical concentrations. The main concern is potential contamination with ethylene oxide or 1,4-dioxane, but reputable manufacturers purify their ingredients to meet safety standards. It has low irritation and comedogenic risk.

Who should be careful with PEG-9 Borageate?

Individuals with known sensitivities to PEG compounds or borage seed oil

Research sources

Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) - Safety of PEGsOpenEU CosIng Database - PEG-9 BorageateOpenPubMed - Borage Oil in DermatologyOpen

Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.