Ingredient review
PEG-240/HDI Copolymer
INCI: PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether
A synthetic film-former that helps makeup and sunscreen stay put, but may feel heavy or tight on sensitive skin.
In plain English
This is a man-made polymer that spreads into a thin, flexible film on your skin. It helps makeup resist water, sweat, and rubbing so it lasts longer. Think of it like a clear, invisible shield that holds pigments and active ingredients in place. Because it's a large molecule, it mostly sits on the surface and doesn't absorb deeply.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Potentially useful with some tradeoffs
The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.
Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.
- Source
- synthetic
- Evidence
- moderate
- Irritation
- low
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Useful, but context matters
PEG-240/HDI Copolymer is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging PEG-240/HDI Copolymer.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
lowLess likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
moderateThere is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.
What it is
A synthetic copolymer created by reacting polyethylene glycol (PEG) with hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) and modifying it with fatty alcohol ethers. It's designed to form a durable, water-resistant film.
How it works
When applied, the polymer chains spread and link together as the solvent evaporates, creating a continuous flexible film. This film physically locks in pigments and sunscreen filters, improving wear time and water resistance.
Pros
Excellent wear time
Creates a durable film that helps makeup and sunscreen resist water, sweat, and transfer throughout the day.
Smooth finish
Spreads evenly and dries down to a non-sticky, smooth surface that helps subsequent layers adhere better.
Cons and cautions
Can feel heavy
The film-forming nature may feel tight or uncomfortable on dry or sensitive skin, especially in cold weather.
Requires double cleansing
Because it's water-resistant, you'll likely need an oil-based cleanser or micellar water to remove it fully without rubbing.
Best for
- People who want long-wearing makeup
- Those who need water-resistant sunscreen
- Oily or combination skin types
Use caution if
- Those with very dry or dehydrated skin
- Anyone who prefers lightweight, breathable textures
Usage tips
Safety summary
Generally considered safe for topical use at typical concentrations. The main concerns are potential skin tightness and the need for thorough removal. PEG contamination is tightly regulated in modern manufacturing.
Research notes
Limited independent studies on this specific copolymer, but film-forming polymers as a class are well-documented for improving wear and water resistance. Safety reviews by CIR and EU SCCS support their use in cosmetics.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- 1% to 10%
- Regulatory status
- Approved for use in cosmetics in the EU, US, and many other regions. PEGs are reviewed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel and considered safe at typical concentrations.
- Common uses
- Waterproof mascara, Long-wear foundation, Sunscreen, Lip products
- Environmental note
- As a synthetic polymer, it is not biodegradable and may persist in water systems. Some brands are moving toward bio-based film-formers.
Good to know
- This ingredient is common in 'tubing' mascaras that form tiny tubes around lashes for easy removal with warm water.
- PEG compounds are purified during manufacturing, but some consumers prefer to avoid them due to potential contamination concerns.
Common questions
What is PEG-240/HDI Copolymer in beauty products?
This is a man-made polymer that spreads into a thin, flexible film on your skin. It helps makeup resist water, sweat, and rubbing so it lasts longer. Think of it like a clear, invisible shield that holds pigments and active ingredients in place. Because it's a large molecule, it mostly sits on the surface and doesn't absorb deeply.
What does PEG-240/HDI Copolymer do in a beauty product?
When applied, the polymer chains spread and link together as the solvent evaporates, creating a continuous flexible film. This film physically locks in pigments and sunscreen filters, improving wear time and water resistance.
Is PEG-240/HDI Copolymer safe for most people?
Generally considered safe for topical use at typical concentrations. The main concerns are potential skin tightness and the need for thorough removal. PEG contamination is tightly regulated in modern manufacturing.
Who should be careful with PEG-240/HDI Copolymer?
Those with very dry or dehydrated skin Anyone who prefers lightweight, breathable textures
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.