Ingredient review
Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23
INCI: Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23
A lab-made peptide that may help smooth wrinkles and firm skin, but human studies are still limited.
In plain English
Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 is a man-made ingredient that pairs a small protein fragment (a dipeptide) with a form of vitamin B3 (niacinamide). In skincare, it is added to products like anti-aging serums and eye creams with the goal of encouraging the skin to produce more collagen and elastin, which can make skin look firmer and reduce the appearance of fine lines. Because it is a newer ingredient, most of the evidence for its effectiveness comes from lab tests rather than large human studies.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Potentially useful with some tradeoffs
The evidence base is still emerging, so marketing claims deserve extra caution.
Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.
- Source
- synthetic
- Evidence
- emerging
- Irritation
- low
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Useful, but context matters
Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
lowLess likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
emergingThe ingredient may be promising, but claims should be treated more cautiously.
What it is
A synthetic peptide (a short chain of amino acids) that has been chemically linked to a nicotinoyl group, which is derived from niacinamide (vitamin B3). It is designed to be stable and to penetrate the skin more easily than some other peptides.
How it works
Once applied to the skin, the peptide portion is thought to signal skin cells to produce more collagen and elastin, the proteins that keep skin firm and bouncy. The nicotinoyl group may help calm inflammation and support the skin barrier, similar to how niacinamide works. Together, they aim to reduce the look of wrinkles and improve skin texture over time.
Pros
Gentle on skin
Unlike some anti-aging ingredients, Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 has a low irritation risk, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.
Dual-action design
Combines a collagen-supporting peptide with a niacinamide-like group, potentially offering both firming and barrier-support benefits in one ingredient.
Cons and cautions
Limited human research
Most studies are lab-based or small; large, independent human trials are lacking, so the real-world effectiveness is not fully proven.
Higher cost
Products containing this peptide tend to be pricier than those with more common anti-aging ingredients like plain niacinamide or retinol.
Best for
- People looking for a gentle anti-aging ingredient to add to their routine
- Those with sensitive skin who want to avoid stronger actives like retinol
Use caution if
- Anyone with a known allergy or sensitivity to peptides or niacinamide
- Those expecting fast, dramatic results from a single product
Usage tips
Safety summary
Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 is considered safe for use in cosmetics at typical concentrations. It has low irritation and comedogenic potential. However, as with any new ingredient, patch testing is recommended, especially for those with sensitive skin or allergies to peptides or niacinamide.
Research notes
Evidence for Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 is primarily from in vitro (lab) studies and small-scale clinical trials. These suggest it can stimulate collagen production and improve skin firmness, but larger, peer-reviewed human studies are needed to confirm these effects conclusively.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- 0.1% to 2%
- Regulatory status
- Approved as a cosmetic ingredient in the EU, US, and other major markets. It is not classified as a drug and cannot claim to treat or cure skin conditions.
- Common uses
- Anti-aging serums, Eye creams, Firming lotions
- Environmental note
- As a synthetic peptide, its environmental impact is not well studied, but it is produced in controlled lab settings, which may reduce ecological footprint compared to some natural extracts.
Good to know
- Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 is often found in luxury or high-end anti-aging lines.
- It can be layered with other peptides or niacinamide without causing irritation.
Common questions
What is Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 in beauty products?
Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 is a man-made ingredient that pairs a small protein fragment (a dipeptide) with a form of vitamin B3 (niacinamide). In skincare, it is added to products like anti-aging serums and eye creams with the goal of encouraging the skin to produce more collagen and elastin, which can make skin look firmer and reduce the appearance of fine lines. Because it is a newer ingredient, most of the evidence for its effectiveness comes from lab tests rather than large human studies.
What does Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 do in a beauty product?
Once applied to the skin, the peptide portion is thought to signal skin cells to produce more collagen and elastin, the proteins that keep skin firm and bouncy. The nicotinoyl group may help calm inflammation and support the skin barrier, similar to how niacinamide works. Together, they aim to reduce the look of wrinkles and improve skin texture over time.
Is Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 safe for most people?
Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 is considered safe for use in cosmetics at typical concentrations. It has low irritation and comedogenic potential. However, as with any new ingredient, patch testing is recommended, especially for those with sensitive skin or allergies to peptides or niacinamide.
Who should be careful with Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23?
Anyone with a known allergy or sensitivity to peptides or niacinamide Those expecting fast, dramatic results from a single product
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.