Ingredient review
Myristoyl Sarcosine
INCI: Myristoyl Sarcosine
A mild, amino-acid-based surfactant that cleans without stripping the skin, making it a great choice for sensitive or dry skin types.
In plain English
Myristoyl Sarcosine is a gentle cleansing ingredient made from sarcosine (an amino acid naturally found in the body) and myristic acid (a fatty acid from coconut or palm oil). Unlike harsh soaps that can strip your skin's natural oils, this surfactant cleans dirt and oil while being kind to the skin barrier. It also helps other ingredients penetrate better and leaves skin feeling soft, not tight or dry.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Potentially useful with some tradeoffs
The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.
Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.
- Source
- semi synthetic
- Evidence
- moderate
- Irritation
- low
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Useful, but context matters
Myristoyl Sarcosine is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Myristoyl Sarcosine.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
lowLess likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
moderateThere is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.
What it is
Myristoyl Sarcosine is a semi-synthetic surfactant created by combining sarcosine (an amino acid) with myristic acid (a fatty acid). It belongs to the sarcosinate family of mild cleansing agents often used in sulfate-free and gentle formulations.
How it works
In a cosmetic product, myristoyl sarcosine works by reducing the surface tension between water and oil, allowing dirt, sebum, and makeup to be rinsed away. It forms small micelles that trap impurities without disrupting the skin's lipid barrier. Additionally, it has a conditioning effect that helps soften the skin and reduce irritation from other cleansing agents.
Pros
Mild on skin
Myristoyl sarcosine is much gentler than traditional soaps and sulfates, making it ideal for daily use on sensitive or dry skin without causing tightness or irritation.
Supports skin barrier
It cleans without stripping the skin's natural moisture barrier, helping maintain hydration and resilience over time.
Cons and cautions
Potential irritation at high levels
In very high concentrations (above 5%), it may still cause mild irritation for extremely sensitive individuals, though this is uncommon in well-formulated products.
Sustainability concerns
Myristic acid is often sourced from palm or coconut oil, which can be associated with deforestation or ethical sourcing issues unless certified sustainable.
Best for
- People with dry or sensitive skin seeking a mild cleanser
- Anyone looking to avoid harsh sulfates like SLS or SLES
Use caution if
- Individuals with known allergies to sarcosine or fatty acid derivatives (rare)
Usage tips
Safety summary
Myristoyl sarcosine is considered safe for use in cosmetics at typical concentrations. It has low irritation and comedogenic potential, making it suitable for most skin types. Rare allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Research notes
Research supports the mildness of sarcosinate surfactants compared to traditional sulfates. Studies show they cause less protein denaturation and skin barrier disruption. However, direct clinical studies on myristoyl sarcosine specifically are limited, with most evidence extrapolated from related sarcosinates.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- 0.5% to 5% in rinse-off products; lower in leave-on formulas
- Regulatory status
- Approved for use in cosmetics by the FDA (as part of generally recognized safe ingredients) and listed in the EU CosIng database. No specific restrictions at typical concentrations.
- Common uses
- Facial cleansers, Body washes, Shampoos, Leave-on creams and lotions
- Environmental note
- Myristoyl sarcosine is biodegradable, but its fatty acid source (palm or coconut oil) may have environmental impacts. Look for products using sustainably sourced palm oil or coconut oil.
Good to know
- Myristoyl sarcosine is often used alongside other mild surfactants to create sulfate-free formulas.
- It is considered biodegradable and generally safe for aquatic life at typical use levels.
Common questions
What is Myristoyl Sarcosine in beauty products?
Myristoyl Sarcosine is a gentle cleansing ingredient made from sarcosine (an amino acid naturally found in the body) and myristic acid (a fatty acid from coconut or palm oil). Unlike harsh soaps that can strip your skin's natural oils, this surfactant cleans dirt and oil while being kind to the skin barrier. It also helps other ingredients penetrate better and leaves skin feeling soft, not tight or dry.
What does Myristoyl Sarcosine do in a beauty product?
In a cosmetic product, myristoyl sarcosine works by reducing the surface tension between water and oil, allowing dirt, sebum, and makeup to be rinsed away. It forms small micelles that trap impurities without disrupting the skin's lipid barrier. Additionally, it has a conditioning effect that helps soften the skin and reduce irritation from other cleansing agents.
Is Myristoyl Sarcosine safe for most people?
Myristoyl sarcosine is considered safe for use in cosmetics at typical concentrations. It has low irritation and comedogenic potential, making it suitable for most skin types. Rare allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Who should be careful with Myristoyl Sarcosine?
Individuals with known allergies to sarcosine or fatty acid derivatives (rare)
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.