Ingredient review
Methyl Glycyrrhizate
INCI: METHYL GLYCYRRHIZATE
A gentle, effective anti-inflammatory derived from licorice root that helps calm redness and irritation without harsh side effects.
In plain English
Methyl glycyrrhizate is a modified version of a compound found in licorice root. It's added to skincare products to help soothe irritated skin, reduce redness, and calm conditions like rosacea or post-procedure sensitivity. Unlike some stronger anti-inflammatories, it's very gentle and unlikely to cause stinging or irritation itself.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Strong fit for many routines
The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.
Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.
- Source
- semi synthetic
- Evidence
- moderate
- Irritation
- low
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Easy yes for most routines
Methyl Glycyrrhizate is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Methyl Glycyrrhizate.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
lowLess likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
moderateThere is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.
What it is
A semi-synthetic derivative of glycyrrhizic acid, the key active compound in licorice root. It is chemically modified to improve stability and skin penetration while retaining its anti-inflammatory properties.
How it works
It works by inhibiting enzymes that trigger inflammatory responses in the skin, such as cyclooxygenase and lipoxygenase. This reduces the production of pro-inflammatory molecules, leading to less redness, swelling, and discomfort. It also has mild antioxidant activity that helps protect skin from environmental stressors.
Pros
Gentle anti-inflammatory
Effectively reduces redness and irritation without the stinging or dryness that can come with stronger anti-inflammatory ingredients like hydrocortisone.
Well-tolerated
Even people with very sensitive skin can usually use methyl glycyrrhizate without adverse reactions, making it a safe choice for daily calming routines.
Cons and cautions
Mild potency
For severe inflammatory skin conditions like active eczema or psoriasis, methyl glycyrrhizate may not be strong enough on its own and may need to be paired with other treatments.
Limited research
While promising, most studies on methyl glycyrrhizate are small or lab-based. More large-scale human trials are needed to fully confirm its long-term benefits and safety.
Best for
- Anyone with sensitive, redness-prone, or rosacea-prone skin
- Those recovering from chemical peels, laser treatments, or microneedling
Use caution if
- Individuals with known allergy to licorice or its derivatives (rare)
Usage tips
Safety summary
Methyl glycyrrhizate is considered safe for topical use in cosmetics at typical concentrations. It has low irritation and sensitization potential. Rare allergic reactions are possible, especially in individuals with legume allergies (licorice is a legume).
Research notes
Multiple in vitro and small human studies support its anti-inflammatory and soothing effects. One study found it reduced UV-induced redness by 30% compared to placebo. However, large-scale clinical trials are lacking, and most evidence is from lab models or small participant groups.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- 0.1% to 1%
- Regulatory status
- Approved as a cosmetic ingredient in the EU, US, and many other regions. Not classified as a drug ingredient.
- Common uses
- Serums, Moisturizers, Sunscreens, Post-procedure creams
- Environmental note
- Derived from licorice root, a renewable plant source. The semi-synthetic process is generally considered low-impact, but specific environmental data is limited.
Good to know
- Methyl glycyrrhizate is often used in post-procedure skincare because it helps calm skin without interfering with healing.
- It is not the same as glycyrrhizic acid or licorice extract — the methylated form is more stable and penetrates the skin better.
Common questions
What is Methyl Glycyrrhizate in beauty products?
Methyl glycyrrhizate is a modified version of a compound found in licorice root. It's added to skincare products to help soothe irritated skin, reduce redness, and calm conditions like rosacea or post-procedure sensitivity. Unlike some stronger anti-inflammatories, it's very gentle and unlikely to cause stinging or irritation itself.
What does Methyl Glycyrrhizate do in a beauty product?
It works by inhibiting enzymes that trigger inflammatory responses in the skin, such as cyclooxygenase and lipoxygenase. This reduces the production of pro-inflammatory molecules, leading to less redness, swelling, and discomfort. It also has mild antioxidant activity that helps protect skin from environmental stressors.
Is Methyl Glycyrrhizate safe for most people?
Methyl glycyrrhizate is considered safe for topical use in cosmetics at typical concentrations. It has low irritation and sensitization potential. Rare allergic reactions are possible, especially in individuals with legume allergies (licorice is a legume).
Who should be careful with Methyl Glycyrrhizate?
Individuals with known allergy to licorice or its derivatives (rare)
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.