Ingredient review
Licorice Root Ferment Extract
INCI: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root/Sucrose Ferment Extract Filtrate
A gentle, fermented licorice root extract that helps calm redness and even skin tone without harsh chemicals.
In plain English
This ingredient is made by fermenting licorice root with sugar. Fermentation breaks down the plant compounds into smaller pieces, which may help them absorb better into the skin. It's known for soothing irritation and giving skin a more even look, similar to how plain licorice root extract works but potentially gentler.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Strong fit for many routines
The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.
Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.
- Source
- natural
- Evidence
- moderate
- Irritation
- low
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Easy yes for most routines
Licorice Root Ferment Extract is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Licorice Root Ferment Extract.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
lowLess likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
moderateThere is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.
What it is
A fermented botanical extract derived from licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra) and sucrose (table sugar). The fermentation process uses beneficial microbes to transform the raw plant material, creating a filtrate rich in bioactive compounds like glabridin and licochalcone.
How it works
In a cosmetic product, this ingredient works in two ways: the licorice root compounds help calm skin inflammation and reduce the look of dark spots by inhibiting tyrosinase (an enzyme involved in melanin production). The fermentation process may also produce gentle exfoliating acids that help smooth skin texture over time.
Pros
Calms irritation
Licorice root compounds like glabridin have been shown in studies to reduce skin inflammation and redness, making this a good choice for sensitive or reactive skin types.
Gentle brightening
By inhibiting tyrosinase, this ingredient can help fade dark spots and even out skin tone over time, without the harsh side effects of stronger brighteners like hydroquinone.
Cons and cautions
Modest evidence
While plain licorice root extract has solid research, the fermented version has fewer studies. Its benefits are inferred from the parent ingredient and general fermentation advantages.
Slow results
Brightening effects are gradual and may take weeks of consistent use to notice. It is not a quick fix for hyperpigmentation.
Best for
- People with sensitive or reactive skin
- Those looking for a gentle brightening ingredient
- Anyone wanting to calm redness from acne or rosacea
Use caution if
- Those with known allergy to licorice or related plants (rare)
- People seeking very fast or dramatic skin lightening
Usage tips
Safety summary
Licorice root extract and its fermented derivatives are considered very safe for topical use. Allergic reactions are extremely rare. The fermentation process does not introduce any known safety concerns.
Research notes
Licorice root extract has been studied for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-brightening effects. The fermented version is less studied but is believed to offer similar benefits with potentially better skin absorption due to the breakdown of larger molecules during fermentation.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- Typically 0.5% to 5% in leave-on products
- Regulatory status
- Generally recognized as safe for cosmetic use. No specific restrictions in the US, EU, or other major markets.
- Common uses
- Serums, Moisturizers, Toner, Face Masks
- Environmental note
- Licorice root is a renewable plant resource. Fermentation is a low-energy, low-waste process compared to chemical extraction methods.
Good to know
- Fermentation can sometimes create a mild, earthy scent that is normal and not a sign of spoilage.
- This ingredient is often found in products marketed for sensitive or redness-prone skin.
Common questions
What is Licorice Root Ferment Extract in beauty products?
This ingredient is made by fermenting licorice root with sugar. Fermentation breaks down the plant compounds into smaller pieces, which may help them absorb better into the skin. It's known for soothing irritation and giving skin a more even look, similar to how plain licorice root extract works but potentially gentler.
What does Licorice Root Ferment Extract do in a beauty product?
In a cosmetic product, this ingredient works in two ways: the licorice root compounds help calm skin inflammation and reduce the look of dark spots by inhibiting tyrosinase (an enzyme involved in melanin production). The fermentation process may also produce gentle exfoliating acids that help smooth skin texture over time.
Is Licorice Root Ferment Extract safe for most people?
Licorice root extract and its fermented derivatives are considered very safe for topical use. Allergic reactions are extremely rare. The fermentation process does not introduce any known safety concerns.
Who should be careful with Licorice Root Ferment Extract?
Those with known allergy to licorice or related plants (rare) People seeking very fast or dramatic skin lightening
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.