Ingredient review
Levan
INCI: Levan
Levan is a gentle, biotech-derived humectant that helps hydrate and soothe skin while forming a lightweight protective film.
In plain English
Levan is a sugar-like molecule made by fermenting certain bacteria or plants. In skincare, it acts like a sponge to pull moisture into your skin and leaves a barely-there film that helps lock that moisture in. Think of it as a lightweight, non-sticky alternative to hyaluronic acid or glycerin. It's also being studied for its ability to calm irritation and support the skin's natural barrier.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Potentially useful with some tradeoffs
The evidence base is still emerging, so marketing claims deserve extra caution.
Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.
- Source
- biotech
- Evidence
- emerging
- Irritation
- low
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Useful, but context matters
Levan is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Levan.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
lowLess likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
emergingThe ingredient may be promising, but claims should be treated more cautiously.
What it is
Levan is a natural polysaccharide (a long chain of sugar molecules) produced by fermentation of microorganisms like Bacillus subtilis or certain plants. It belongs to the fructan family, meaning its sugar units are fructose-based. In cosmetics, it's used as a humectant and film-forming agent.
How it works
Levan attracts water molecules from the environment and deeper layers of the skin, increasing hydration. Its large molecular structure also allows it to form a thin, flexible film on the skin's surface, which reduces water loss (transepidermal water loss, or TEWL) and helps protect against environmental stressors. Some research suggests it may also have anti-inflammatory and prebiotic effects, supporting a healthy skin microbiome.
Pros
Gentle hydration
Levan pulls moisture into the skin without causing irritation, making it a great choice for sensitive or reactive skin types.
Lightweight barrier
It forms a thin, breathable film that helps reduce water loss without feeling heavy or sticky, unlike some thicker occlusives.
Cons and cautions
Limited research
Compared to ingredients like hyaluronic acid or glycerin, levan has fewer human studies backing its long-term efficacy and benefits.
Climate dependent
As a humectant, levan works best in humid environments; in very dry air, it may draw moisture from deeper skin layers if not paired with an occlusive.
Best for
- People with dry or dehydrated skin looking for a gentle humectant
- Those with sensitive or reactive skin who want a soothing, non-irritating hydrator
- Individuals seeking a lightweight, non-greasy moisturizing ingredient
Use caution if
- People with known allergies to fermented ingredients (rare, but possible)
Usage tips
Safety summary
Levan has a low irritation and comedogenic risk, making it suitable for most skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. Allergic reactions are rare. As with any new ingredient, a patch test is recommended for those with highly reactive skin.
Research notes
Current evidence for levan in skincare is primarily from in vitro and preliminary human studies. It shows promise as a hydrating, film-forming, and soothing ingredient, but more large-scale clinical trials are needed to fully confirm its benefits compared to established humectants.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- 0.5% to 3%
- Regulatory status
- Levan is generally recognized as safe for use in cosmetics. It is not specifically regulated by the FDA as a drug ingredient, but it is widely used in personal care products globally, including in the EU and Asia.
- Common uses
- Serums, Moisturizers, Masks, Eye creams
- Environmental note
- Levan is typically produced through bacterial fermentation using renewable feedstocks (e.g., sucrose), making it a biodegradable and relatively sustainable ingredient compared to some petroleum-derived polymers.
Good to know
- Levan is often produced via fermentation, making it a sustainable and eco-friendly ingredient.
- It is sometimes labeled as 'fructan' or 'microbial levan' on ingredient lists.
- Levan is not the same as 'levulinic acid' — they are completely different compounds.
Common questions
What is Levan in beauty products?
Levan is a sugar-like molecule made by fermenting certain bacteria or plants. In skincare, it acts like a sponge to pull moisture into your skin and leaves a barely-there film that helps lock that moisture in. Think of it as a lightweight, non-sticky alternative to hyaluronic acid or glycerin. It's also being studied for its ability to calm irritation and support the skin's natural barrier.
What does Levan do in a beauty product?
Levan attracts water molecules from the environment and deeper layers of the skin, increasing hydration. Its large molecular structure also allows it to form a thin, flexible film on the skin's surface, which reduces water loss (transepidermal water loss, or TEWL) and helps protect against environmental stressors. Some research suggests it may also have anti-inflammatory and prebiotic effects, supporting a healthy skin microbiome.
Is Levan safe for most people?
Levan has a low irritation and comedogenic risk, making it suitable for most skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. Allergic reactions are rare. As with any new ingredient, a patch test is recommended for those with highly reactive skin.
Who should be careful with Levan?
People with known allergies to fermented ingredients (rare, but possible)
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.