Ingredient review
Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleic Acid/Hexanediol Copolymer
INCI: HYDROGENATED DIMER DILINOLEIC ACID/HEXANEDIOL COPOLYMER
A gentle, plant-derived film former that helps makeup and sunscreen stay put without clogging pores or irritating skin.
In plain English
This ingredient is a type of polymer — a long chain of molecules — made from fatty acids found in plants (like sunflower or castor oil) and a sugar-alcohol called hexanediol. When applied to skin, it dries down into an invisible, flexible film that helps other ingredients stay in place, resist water and sweat, and feel smooth rather than sticky. Think of it as a gentle, breathable glue for your skincare and makeup.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Potentially useful with some tradeoffs
The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.
Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.
- Source
- semi synthetic
- Evidence
- moderate
- Irritation
- low
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Useful, but context matters
Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleic Acid/Hexanediol Copolymer is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleic Acid/Hexanediol Copolymer.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
lowLess likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
moderateThere is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.
What it is
A semi-synthetic copolymer created by reacting hydrogenated dimer dilinoleic acid (a plant-derived fatty acid) with hexanediol (a humectant alcohol). The result is a polyester-like polymer that forms a flexible, water-resistant film on the skin.
How it works
When applied, the copolymer molecules link together as the water or solvent evaporates, creating a thin, even film over the skin. This film physically blocks water and sweat from washing away active ingredients (like sunscreen filters) and helps pigments in makeup stay put without migrating into fine lines. It also adds a silky, non-greasy feel to products.
Pros
Boosts water resistance
Helps sunscreen and makeup stay effective even when you sweat or swim, so you don't have to reapply as often.
Non-comedogenic and gentle
Unlike some older film formers, this polymer is unlikely to clog pores or irritate sensitive skin, making it suitable for acne-prone and reactive skin types.
Cons and cautions
Can feel drying
In high concentrations, the film it creates may feel slightly tight or dry on very dehydrated skin, especially if you don't use a moisturizer underneath.
Requires double cleansing
Because it forms a water-resistant film, it won't rinse off with water alone. You'll need an oil-based cleanser or micellar water to remove it completely.
Best for
- Anyone looking for longer-lasting sunscreen or makeup
- People with oily or combination skin who want a matte, non-greasy finish
Use caution if
- Those who prefer a dewy, glossy finish may find it too matte
Usage tips
Safety summary
Considered safe for use in cosmetics at typical concentrations. It has a low irritation and comedogenic risk, and no significant safety concerns have been reported in regulatory or dermatological reviews.
Research notes
While not as extensively studied as some older film formers, available safety data and dermatological reviews classify it as non-irritating and non-sensitizing. Its water-resistance benefits are well-documented in sunscreen formulation studies.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- 1–10%
- Regulatory status
- Approved for use in cosmetics worldwide, including by the EU, FDA (as a cosmetic ingredient), and Health Canada. No concentration limits are imposed, but typical use is 1–10%.
- Common uses
- Sunscreens, Long-wear foundations, Water-resistant creams, Lip products
- Environmental note
- Sourced from plant-based fatty acids (often from sunflower or castor oil) and is biodegradable, reducing its environmental footprint compared to fully synthetic alternatives.
Good to know
- This ingredient is often listed under the trade name 'Polyester-5' on some product labels.
- It is biodegradable and derived from renewable plant sources, making it a more eco-friendly choice compared to some petroleum-based film formers.
Common questions
What is Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleic Acid/Hexanediol Copolymer in beauty products?
This ingredient is a type of polymer — a long chain of molecules — made from fatty acids found in plants (like sunflower or castor oil) and a sugar-alcohol called hexanediol. When applied to skin, it dries down into an invisible, flexible film that helps other ingredients stay in place, resist water and sweat, and feel smooth rather than sticky. Think of it as a gentle, breathable glue for your skincare and makeup.
What does Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleic Acid/Hexanediol Copolymer do in a beauty product?
When applied, the copolymer molecules link together as the water or solvent evaporates, creating a thin, even film over the skin. This film physically blocks water and sweat from washing away active ingredients (like sunscreen filters) and helps pigments in makeup stay put without migrating into fine lines. It also adds a silky, non-greasy feel to products.
Is Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleic Acid/Hexanediol Copolymer safe for most people?
Considered safe for use in cosmetics at typical concentrations. It has a low irritation and comedogenic risk, and no significant safety concerns have been reported in regulatory or dermatological reviews.
Who should be careful with Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleic Acid/Hexanediol Copolymer?
Those who prefer a dewy, glossy finish may find it too matte
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.