Ingredient review
Fermented Licorice Extract
INCI: SACCHAROMYCES/GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA/GLYCYRRHIZA URALENSIS LEAF/STEM FERMENT EXTRACT
A fermented licorice extract that may help calm and protect skin, though research on this specific ferment is limited.
In plain English
This ingredient is made by fermenting licorice plant leaves and stems with yeast. Fermentation can break down plant compounds into smaller, potentially more absorbable pieces. It's used in skincare for its antioxidant and soothing properties, but because it's a specific fermented blend, there isn't a lot of independent research on it yet.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Potentially useful with some tradeoffs
The evidence base is still emerging, so marketing claims deserve extra caution.
Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.
- Source
- biotech
- Evidence
- emerging
- Irritation
- low
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Useful, but context matters
Fermented Licorice Extract is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Fermented Licorice Extract.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
lowLess likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
emergingThe ingredient may be promising, but claims should be treated more cautiously.
What it is
A fermented extract derived from the leaves and stems of two licorice species (Glycyrrhiza glabra and Glycyrrhiza uralensis) using Saccharomyces (baker's or brewer's yeast). The fermentation process is thought to enhance the bioavailability of the plant's natural compounds.
How it works
The fermentation process may release and modify bioactive compounds like flavonoids and glycyrrhizin from the licorice plant. These compounds are believed to have antioxidant effects (helping neutralize free radicals) and soothing properties (potentially calming redness or irritation). However, the exact mechanism of action for this specific ferment is not well-documented.
Pros
Gentle antioxidant
May help protect skin from environmental stressors without causing irritation, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.
Soothing potential
Licorice-derived compounds are traditionally used to calm redness and inflammation, and fermentation may enhance these effects.
Cons and cautions
Limited evidence
There is very little published research on this specific fermented extract, so its benefits are largely inferred from general licorice and fermentation studies.
Variable potency
The concentration of active compounds can vary depending on the fermentation process and plant source, leading to inconsistent results between products.
Best for
- People looking for a gentle antioxidant ingredient
- Those interested in fermented skincare ingredients
Use caution if
- Individuals with known allergies to licorice or yeast
- Those with very sensitive skin who react to fermented ingredients
Usage tips
Safety summary
This ingredient is considered low risk for irritation and comedogenicity based on its plant origin and fermentation. However, individual sensitivity is possible, and there is limited safety data specific to this ferment.
Research notes
Research on fermented licorice extracts is sparse. Most evidence comes from studies on non-fermented licorice root, which show antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity. The fermentation step is theoretically beneficial but not well-studied for this specific combination.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- 0.5% to 5%
- Regulatory status
- Generally recognized as safe for cosmetic use in the EU and US, though specific concentration limits are not established.
- Common uses
- Serums, Moisturizers, Toning Lotions
- Environmental note
- Licorice is a cultivated crop; fermentation uses renewable yeast cultures. Sourcing practices vary by supplier.
Good to know
- Fermented ingredients are often marketed as 'biotech' or 'bio-fermented' on labels.
- This ingredient is not the same as standard licorice root extract; the fermentation process changes its composition.
Common questions
What is Fermented Licorice Extract in beauty products?
This ingredient is made by fermenting licorice plant leaves and stems with yeast. Fermentation can break down plant compounds into smaller, potentially more absorbable pieces. It's used in skincare for its antioxidant and soothing properties, but because it's a specific fermented blend, there isn't a lot of independent research on it yet.
What does Fermented Licorice Extract do in a beauty product?
The fermentation process may release and modify bioactive compounds like flavonoids and glycyrrhizin from the licorice plant. These compounds are believed to have antioxidant effects (helping neutralize free radicals) and soothing properties (potentially calming redness or irritation). However, the exact mechanism of action for this specific ferment is not well-documented.
Is Fermented Licorice Extract safe for most people?
This ingredient is considered low risk for irritation and comedogenicity based on its plant origin and fermentation. However, individual sensitivity is possible, and there is limited safety data specific to this ferment.
Who should be careful with Fermented Licorice Extract?
Individuals with known allergies to licorice or yeast Those with very sensitive skin who react to fermented ingredients
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.