Ingredient review

Fermented Borage & Soybean Complex

INCI: BACILLUS/MONASCUS/BORAGO OFFICINALIS SEED/SOYBEAN FERMENT FILTRATE

A gentle, antioxidant-rich ferment that may help soothe and condition skin, but research is still emerging.

beautyskincareantioxidantskin-conditioning agent

In plain English

This ingredient is made by fermenting borage seeds and soybeans with two types of microbes: Bacillus bacteria and Monascus yeast. The fermentation process breaks down the plant materials into smaller, potentially more skin-friendly compounds. The resulting liquid is filtered and used in skincare to provide antioxidant benefits and help keep skin feeling soft and smooth. It's a modern, biotech-derived ingredient that's generally well-tolerated.

Quick decision guide

Useful, but context matters

Fermented Borage & Soybean Complex is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.

Plain-English read

Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.

Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Fermented Borage & Soybean Complex.
Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.

Score terms in plain English

Irritation risk

low

Less likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.

Clogging risk

low

Less likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.

Evidence level

emerging

The ingredient may be promising, but claims should be treated more cautiously.

What it is

A fermented filtrate created by culturing Bacillus bacteria and Monascus yeast on a mixture of borage (Borago officinalis) seeds and soybeans. After fermentation, the liquid is filtered to remove solids, leaving a complex blend of peptides, amino acids, fatty acids, and other bioactive compounds.

How it works

The fermentation process generates small peptides and amino acids that can help support the skin's natural barrier function. The borage seed component is rich in gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), an omega-6 fatty acid known for its soothing properties. The soybean portion provides isoflavones and other antioxidants that may help protect skin from environmental stress. Together, these components work to condition the skin and provide antioxidant protection.

Pros

Rich in antioxidants

The fermentation process boosts the antioxidant capacity of borage and soy, helping to neutralize free radicals that can cause premature aging.

Gentle and soothing

Borage seed is naturally high in GLA, an omega-6 fatty acid known for its calming properties, making this ingredient suitable for many skin types.

Cons and cautions

Limited research

While fermentation in skincare is well-studied, specific human trials on this exact Bacillus/Monascus/borage/soy blend are scarce, so benefits are largely inferred from similar ingredients.

Potential allergen

Because it contains soybean derivatives, anyone with a soy allergy should avoid this ingredient or patch test carefully.

Best for

Those looking for antioxidant-rich, gentle skincare
People with normal to dry skin seeking barrier support
Fans of fermented skincare ingredients

Use caution if

Individuals with a known soy allergy
Those with very sensitive skin who react to fermented ingredients

Usage tips

Use in a serum or essence after cleansing and before moisturizing for best absorption.

Store products containing this ferment in a cool, dark place to preserve its antioxidant activity.

If you have sensitive skin, patch test on your inner arm for 24 hours before applying to your face.

Safety summary

This ingredient is considered safe for cosmetic use with a low irritation and comedogenic risk. The main concern is potential allergy to soy. As with any new ingredient, patch testing is recommended for those with sensitive or reactive skin.

Research notes

Research on fermented plant extracts in skincare is growing, with studies showing antioxidant and barrier-support benefits. However, specific clinical trials on this exact Bacillus/Monascus/borage/soy ferment are limited. Most evidence comes from studies on similar ferments or the individual plant components.

Common label clues

Typical concentration: Typically 1–10% in leave-on products
Regulatory status: Generally recognized as safe for cosmetic use. No specific restrictions in the US, EU, or other major markets, but always check finished product labeling.
Common uses: Serums, Moisturizers, Essences, Face masks
Environmental note: The fermentation process is considered a green chemistry approach, using less energy and fewer solvents than traditional extraction methods. Both borage and soy are widely cultivated crops.

Good to know

Fermented ingredients are often more bioavailable than their non-fermented counterparts, meaning the skin may absorb them more easily.
This ingredient is typically clear to slightly yellow in color and has a mild, earthy scent due to the fermentation process.

Common questions

What is Fermented Borage & Soybean Complex in beauty products?

What does Fermented Borage & Soybean Complex do in a beauty product?

Is Fermented Borage & Soybean Complex safe for most people?

Who should be careful with Fermented Borage & Soybean Complex?

Individuals with a known soy allergy Those with very sensitive skin who react to fermented ingredients

Research sources

CosIng (EU Cosmetic Ingredient Database)Open PubMed - Fermented plant extracts in cosmeticsOpen INCIDecoder - Fermented ingredient overviewOpen

Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.