Ingredient review
Ethanolamine Thioglycolate
INCI: ETHANOLAMINE THIOGLYCOLATE
A strong chemical that breaks hair bonds for removal or reshaping, but can irritate skin if not used carefully.
In plain English
Ethanolamine thioglycolate is a chemical that works by breaking the strong bonds inside hair, making it soft enough to be wiped away (in depilatory creams) or reshaped (in perms or straighteners). It is a common alternative to calcium thioglycolate and is often chosen for its milder odor. Because it can be irritating, products containing it usually include buffers and skin-soothing ingredients, and you should always follow the directions closely.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Potentially useful with some tradeoffs
The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.
Main practical flags: irritation is moderate; clogging risk is low.
- Source
- synthetic
- Evidence
- moderate
- Irritation
- moderate
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Useful, but context matters
Ethanolamine Thioglycolate can be useful, but watch for some irritation potential.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Ethanolamine Thioglycolate.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
moderateCan bother some users, especially with frequent use, damaged skin, or strong companion ingredients.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
moderateThere is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.
What it is
A salt formed from ethanolamine and thioglycolic acid, used as a reducing agent in hair-removal and hair-styling products.
How it works
It reduces (breaks) the disulfide bonds in the protein structure of hair, causing the hair to soften and lose its strength. In depilatories, this allows the hair to be easily wiped away. In perms, the bonds are reformed into a new shape after the hair is set.
Pros
Effective hair removal
Breaks down hair quickly, allowing for smooth results in minutes.
Milder odor than some alternatives
Compared to calcium thioglycolate, ethanolamine thioglycolate often has a less pungent smell, making it more pleasant to use.
Cons and cautions
Skin irritation risk
Can cause redness, stinging, or chemical burns if the product is left on longer than directed or used on sensitive areas.
Not suitable for all hair types
May be less effective on very coarse or thick hair, requiring longer application times that increase irritation risk.
Best for
- People looking for effective hair removal at home
- Those who tolerate chemical depilatories well
Use caution if
- Individuals with sensitive or broken skin
- Anyone with a known allergy to thioglycolates
Usage tips
Safety summary
Generally safe when used as directed, but carries a moderate risk of skin irritation. Avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes. Do not use on damaged skin.
Research notes
Clinical studies and safety reviews by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel have established safe concentration limits for thioglycolates in depilatories and perms, noting that irritation is the primary concern.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- 2% to 15% depending on product type
- Regulatory status
- Approved for cosmetic use in the EU, US, and many other regions, with concentration limits and labeling requirements for depilatory and perm products.
- Common uses
- Hair removal creams, Perm solutions, Hair straighteners
- Environmental note
- Thioglycolates can be toxic to aquatic life; dispose of unused product responsibly and avoid rinsing down drains in large quantities.
Good to know
- Ethanolamine thioglycolate is often used in 'no-heat' depilatory creams.
- Products containing this ingredient typically have a high pH (alkaline) to optimize its effectiveness.
Common questions
What is Ethanolamine Thioglycolate in beauty products?
Ethanolamine thioglycolate is a chemical that works by breaking the strong bonds inside hair, making it soft enough to be wiped away (in depilatory creams) or reshaped (in perms or straighteners). It is a common alternative to calcium thioglycolate and is often chosen for its milder odor. Because it can be irritating, products containing it usually include buffers and skin-soothing ingredients, and you should always follow the directions closely.
What does Ethanolamine Thioglycolate do in a beauty product?
It reduces (breaks) the disulfide bonds in the protein structure of hair, causing the hair to soften and lose its strength. In depilatories, this allows the hair to be easily wiped away. In perms, the bonds are reformed into a new shape after the hair is set.
Is Ethanolamine Thioglycolate safe for most people?
Generally safe when used as directed, but carries a moderate risk of skin irritation. Avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes. Do not use on damaged skin.
Who should be careful with Ethanolamine Thioglycolate?
Individuals with sensitive or broken skin Anyone with a known allergy to thioglycolates
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.