Ingredient review
Dipeptide-28 Nicotinate
INCI: DIPEPTIDE-28 NICOTINATE
A lab-made peptide-niacin hybrid that may help firm skin and soften lines, but human studies are limited.
In plain English
Dipeptide-28 Nicotinate is a man-made ingredient that links a small protein fragment (a dipeptide) with a form of vitamin B3 called niacin. In skincare, it is designed to encourage the skin to produce more collagen and elastin, which are the proteins that keep skin plump and springy. The niacin part may also help improve skin texture and tone. Think of it as a targeted signal that tells skin cells to act younger, but results vary and it works best over weeks of consistent use.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Potentially useful with some tradeoffs
The evidence base is still emerging, so marketing claims deserve extra caution.
Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.
- Source
- synthetic
- Evidence
- emerging
- Irritation
- low
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Useful, but context matters
Dipeptide-28 Nicotinate is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Dipeptide-28 Nicotinate.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
lowLess likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
emergingThe ingredient may be promising, but claims should be treated more cautiously.
What it is
A synthetic compound where a short peptide (two amino acids linked together) is chemically bonded to nicotinic acid (a form of vitamin B3). It is produced in a laboratory and used in anti-aging skincare products.
How it works
The peptide portion is thought to mimic natural signaling molecules that stimulate fibroblasts (skin cells) to produce more collagen and elastin. The nicotinate component may enhance blood flow and improve the delivery of the peptide into the skin, while also offering antioxidant-like benefits. Together, they aim to support the skin's structural support network, leading to firmer, smoother skin over time.
Pros
Gentle on skin
Low irritation and comedogenic risk make it suitable for most skin types, including sensitive skin.
Dual-action design
Combines a collagen-supporting peptide with a vitamin B3 derivative for potential added skin-brightening and texture benefits.
Cons and cautions
Limited evidence
Most support comes from lab studies and small trials; large-scale human studies are lacking, so effectiveness is not fully proven.
Slow results
Like most peptides, it requires consistent use over several weeks to see any visible improvement, and changes are subtle.
Best for
- People looking for a gentle anti-aging ingredient to add to their routine
- Those with mature or sun-damaged skin seeking improved firmness
Use caution if
- Anyone with a known allergy to niacin or peptides
- Those expecting instant or dramatic results
Usage tips
Safety summary
Considered safe for use in cosmetics at typical concentrations. Low irritation and allergy risk based on available data, but individual sensitivity is always possible.
Research notes
Early research suggests potential for collagen stimulation and skin firming, but most evidence is from lab studies or small trials. More robust human studies are needed to confirm efficacy.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- 0.1% to 1%
- Regulatory status
- Approved as a cosmetic ingredient in the EU, US, and other major markets. Not classified as a drug or medicine.
- Common uses
- Anti-aging serums, Eye creams, Firming lotions
- Environmental note
- Synthetically produced, so it does not rely on plant harvesting. Biodegradability data is not publicly available.
Good to know
- Peptides are fragile; avoid using with very low pH (under 4) or high pH (over 7) products in the same step.
- Dipeptide-28 Nicotinate is not the same as niacinamide, though both are forms of vitamin B3.
Common questions
What is Dipeptide-28 Nicotinate in beauty products?
Dipeptide-28 Nicotinate is a man-made ingredient that links a small protein fragment (a dipeptide) with a form of vitamin B3 called niacin. In skincare, it is designed to encourage the skin to produce more collagen and elastin, which are the proteins that keep skin plump and springy. The niacin part may also help improve skin texture and tone. Think of it as a targeted signal that tells skin cells to act younger, but results vary and it works best over weeks of consistent use.
What does Dipeptide-28 Nicotinate do in a beauty product?
The peptide portion is thought to mimic natural signaling molecules that stimulate fibroblasts (skin cells) to produce more collagen and elastin. The nicotinate component may enhance blood flow and improve the delivery of the peptide into the skin, while also offering antioxidant-like benefits. Together, they aim to support the skin's structural support network, leading to firmer, smoother skin over time.
Is Dipeptide-28 Nicotinate safe for most people?
Considered safe for use in cosmetics at typical concentrations. Low irritation and allergy risk based on available data, but individual sensitivity is always possible.
Who should be careful with Dipeptide-28 Nicotinate?
Anyone with a known allergy to niacin or peptides Those expecting instant or dramatic results
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.