Ingredient review

Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide

INCI: DIBUTYL LAUROYL GLUTAMIDE

A synthetic gelling agent that gives lip and stick products a smooth, clear, non-sticky texture without water.

beautyskincaretexturizer

In plain English

Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide is a man-made ingredient derived from an amino acid (glutamic acid) and lauric acid (from coconut or palm oil). It is used to turn liquid oils into a clear, stable gel. You'll find it in lip glosses, lipsticks, and oil-based serums where it provides a smooth, glossy feel without the stickiness of traditional waxes or thickeners. Because it works without water, it's ideal for anhydrous (water-free) formulas.

Review score

Safety, usefulness, and evidence

4.0Good
4.0/ 5

Potentially useful with some tradeoffs

The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.

Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.

Source
synthetic
Evidence
moderate
Irritation
low
Clogging risk
low
How reviews are scored

Quick decision guide

Useful, but context matters

Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.

Plain-English read

Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.

  1. Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide.
  2. Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
  3. Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.

Score terms in plain English

Irritation risk

low

Less likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.

Clogging risk

low

Less likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.

Evidence level

moderate

There is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.

What it is

A synthetic gelling agent made by reacting glutamic acid (an amino acid) with lauric acid (a fatty acid) and butyl groups. It forms a network of fibers that trap oil, creating a clear gel.

How it works

When dispersed in oil and heated, the molecules self-assemble into a three-dimensional network that immobilizes the oil, turning it into a solid or semi-solid gel. This structure is stable at room temperature and gives a smooth, non-tacky texture.

Pros

Non-sticky texture

Unlike many waxes or thickeners, Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide creates a smooth, glossy gel that feels lightweight and not tacky on the lips or skin.

Clear gel formation

It produces transparent gels, which is ideal for clear lip glosses and serums where appearance matters.

Cons and cautions

Limited to oil-based formulas

This ingredient only works in anhydrous (water-free) products, so it cannot be used in water-based creams or lotions.

Requires heating to incorporate

Formulators need to heat the oil phase to dissolve the gelling agent, which adds a step to the manufacturing process.

Best for

  • Anyone who enjoys smooth, non-sticky lip glosses or lipsticks
  • People looking for oil-based serums with a gel-like texture

Use caution if

  • Those who strictly avoid synthetic ingredients in cosmetics

Usage tips

Use at 1-3% for a soft gel, up to 5% for a firm stick.
Heat the oil phase to 80-90°C to fully dissolve the gelling agent, then cool to set the gel.
Combine with other film-formers or emollients to fine-tune the texture.

Safety summary

Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide is considered safe for use in cosmetics at typical concentrations. It has low irritation and comedogenic potential, and no significant safety concerns have been raised by regulatory bodies.

Research notes

Research on this ingredient is limited to formulation studies and safety assessments. It is not associated with any known toxicity or sensitization in topical use. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has not published a specific monograph, but it is widely used in the industry.

Common label clues

Typical concentration
0.5% to 5%
Regulatory status
Approved for use in cosmetics in the EU, US, and many other regions. Listed in the CosIng database and generally recognized as safe for topical use at typical concentrations.
Common uses
Lip glosses, Lipsticks, Anhydrous serums, Stick products
Environmental note
Synthetic ingredient; its environmental persistence is not well-documented. The lauric acid component may be derived from palm oil, so sourcing can vary.

Good to know

  • Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide is often paired with Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide to create even stronger gel networks.
  • It is not water-soluble, so it will not thicken water-based products.

Common questions

What is Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide in beauty products?

Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide is a man-made ingredient derived from an amino acid (glutamic acid) and lauric acid (from coconut or palm oil). It is used to turn liquid oils into a clear, stable gel. You'll find it in lip glosses, lipsticks, and oil-based serums where it provides a smooth, glossy feel without the stickiness of traditional waxes or thickeners. Because it works without water, it's ideal for anhydrous (water-free) formulas.

What does Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide do in a beauty product?

When dispersed in oil and heated, the molecules self-assemble into a three-dimensional network that immobilizes the oil, turning it into a solid or semi-solid gel. This structure is stable at room temperature and gives a smooth, non-tacky texture.

Is Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide safe for most people?

Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide is considered safe for use in cosmetics at typical concentrations. It has low irritation and comedogenic potential, and no significant safety concerns have been raised by regulatory bodies.

Who should be careful with Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide?

Those who strictly avoid synthetic ingredients in cosmetics

Research sources

Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.