Ingredient review
Collagenase SH-Oligopeptide-60
INCI: R-Clostridium Histolyticum Collagenase H SH-Oligopeptide-60
A novel peptide inspired by a bacterial enzyme that may help break down old collagen to encourage new collagen production, but human research is very limited.
In plain English
This ingredient is a tiny piece of a protein (a peptide) that was originally found in a bacteria called Clostridium histolyticum. That bacteria makes an enzyme that can break down collagen. In skincare, this peptide is used in very small amounts to gently help remove old, damaged collagen from the skin, which might signal your skin to make fresh collagen. Think of it like clearing away old scaffolding so new scaffolding can be built. However, because it comes from a bacteria that can cause infection, the ingredient is highly purified and modified to be safe for cosmetic use. There is very little published research on this specific peptide in human skin, so its effectiveness is still being explored.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Potentially useful with some tradeoffs
The evidence base is still emerging, so marketing claims deserve extra caution.
Main practical flags: irritation is moderate; clogging risk is low.
- Source
- biotech
- Evidence
- emerging
- Irritation
- moderate
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Useful, but context matters
Collagenase SH-Oligopeptide-60 can be useful, but watch for some irritation potential.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Collagenase SH-Oligopeptide-60.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
moderateCan bother some users, especially with frequent use, damaged skin, or strong companion ingredients.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
emergingThe ingredient may be promising, but claims should be treated more cautiously.
What it is
A synthetic peptide fragment (short chain of amino acids) that mimics a part of the collagenase enzyme from Clostridium histolyticum. It is produced in a lab using biotechnology, not extracted from the bacteria itself.
How it works
In a cosmetic product, this peptide is thought to bind to old or damaged collagen fibers in the skin and help break them down. This process, called controlled collagen remodeling, may trigger the skin's natural repair response to produce new collagen. It is not a live enzyme and is much weaker than the full bacterial enzyme, so it works slowly and gently.
Pros
Novel collagen support
Works by gently breaking down old collagen, which may encourage the skin to build new collagen for improved firmness.
Biotech purity
Produced in a lab, so it is consistent and free from contaminants that could be present in natural extracts.
Cons and cautions
Limited evidence
There are almost no published human studies on this specific peptide, so its real-world benefits are not well proven.
Potential irritation
Because it is derived from a bacterial enzyme, it may cause stinging or redness in people with sensitive skin, especially at higher concentrations.
Best for
- People looking for advanced anti-aging ingredients
- Those with mature or sun-damaged skin
Use caution if
- People with very sensitive or reactive skin
- Anyone with open wounds or active skin infections
Usage tips
Safety summary
Considered safe for cosmetic use at low concentrations, but may cause irritation in sensitive individuals. There is no long-term safety data specific to this peptide.
Research notes
The ingredient is based on known collagenase biology, but direct clinical evidence for this specific peptide in human skin is minimal. Most claims are theoretical or extrapolated from related peptides.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- Typically used at very low levels, often below 1%
- Regulatory status
- Approved for cosmetic use in many regions including the EU and US, but not evaluated by the FDA for safety or efficacy.
- Common uses
- Anti-aging serums, Firming creams
- Environmental note
- Produced via biotechnology, which generally has a lower environmental footprint than harvesting from natural sources.
Good to know
- This ingredient is not the same as the full collagenase enzyme used in medical wound care; it is a much milder peptide fragment.
- It is often listed near the end of an ingredient list because it is used in very small amounts.
Common questions
What is Collagenase SH-Oligopeptide-60 in beauty products?
This ingredient is a tiny piece of a protein (a peptide) that was originally found in a bacteria called Clostridium histolyticum. That bacteria makes an enzyme that can break down collagen. In skincare, this peptide is used in very small amounts to gently help remove old, damaged collagen from the skin, which might signal your skin to make fresh collagen. Think of it like clearing away old scaffolding so new scaffolding can be built. However, because it comes from a bacteria that can cause infection, the ingredient is highly purified and modified to be safe for cosmetic use. There is very little published research on this specific peptide in human skin, so its effectiveness is still being explored.
What does Collagenase SH-Oligopeptide-60 do in a beauty product?
In a cosmetic product, this peptide is thought to bind to old or damaged collagen fibers in the skin and help break them down. This process, called controlled collagen remodeling, may trigger the skin's natural repair response to produce new collagen. It is not a live enzyme and is much weaker than the full bacterial enzyme, so it works slowly and gently.
Is Collagenase SH-Oligopeptide-60 safe for most people?
Considered safe for cosmetic use at low concentrations, but may cause irritation in sensitive individuals. There is no long-term safety data specific to this peptide.
Who should be careful with Collagenase SH-Oligopeptide-60?
People with very sensitive or reactive skin Anyone with open wounds or active skin infections
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.