Ingredient review
Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
INCI: CHOLESTERYL/OCTYLDODECYL LAUROYL GLUTAMATE
A gentle, cholesterol-based emollient that helps reinforce the skin barrier without clogging pores.
In plain English
This ingredient is a modified form of cholesterol combined with fatty acids and an amino acid. It works like the natural fats in your skin, helping to fill in gaps in the outer layer so moisture stays in and irritants stay out. Think of it as a skin-friendly oil that softens without feeling greasy.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Potentially useful with some tradeoffs
The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.
Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.
- Source
- semi synthetic
- Evidence
- moderate
- Irritation
- low
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Useful, but context matters
Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
lowLess likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
moderateThere is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.
What it is
A semi-synthetic lipid molecule created by joining cholesterol, a long-chain fatty alcohol (octyldodecanol), and lauroyl glutamate (a fatty acid + amino acid). It mimics the skin's own barrier lipids.
How it works
When applied, it integrates into the skin's outermost layer (the stratum corneum), filling microscopic cracks and smoothing rough patches. This reduces water loss (TEWL) and makes the skin feel softer and more supple.
Pros
Barrier-friendly
Structurally similar to natural skin lipids, it helps repair the moisture barrier without irritation.
Non-comedogenic
Rated low on the comedogenic scale, making it suitable for most skin types, including those prone to breakouts.
Cons and cautions
May feel heavy on oily skin
In high concentrations, it can leave a slightly rich feel that some with very oily skin may not prefer.
Less common ingredient
Not as widely studied or used as simpler emollients, so long-term data is more limited.
Best for
- People with dry or dehydrated skin looking for barrier repair
- Those with sensitive skin who react to common plant oils
Use caution if
- Individuals with extremely oily or acne-prone skin may prefer lighter emollients like squalane
Usage tips
Safety summary
Considered safe for use in cosmetics at typical concentrations. Low irritation and comedogenic potential. No significant safety concerns reported in regulatory reviews.
Research notes
Clinical studies on similar cholesterol esters show improved barrier function and reduced water loss. Direct studies on this specific compound are limited but consistent with known lipid chemistry.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- 0.5% to 3%
- Regulatory status
- Approved as a cosmetic ingredient in the EU, US, and most major markets. No known restrictions.
- Common uses
- Moisturizers, Anti-aging creams, Lip products, Eye creams
- Environmental note
- Semi-synthetic production reduces reliance on animal-derived cholesterol. Biodegradability is expected to be moderate.
Good to know
- This ingredient is often found in luxury or dermatologist-developed barrier creams.
- It is vegan-friendly when derived from plant-based cholesterol sources.
Common questions
What is Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate in beauty products?
This ingredient is a modified form of cholesterol combined with fatty acids and an amino acid. It works like the natural fats in your skin, helping to fill in gaps in the outer layer so moisture stays in and irritants stay out. Think of it as a skin-friendly oil that softens without feeling greasy.
What does Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate do in a beauty product?
When applied, it integrates into the skin's outermost layer (the stratum corneum), filling microscopic cracks and smoothing rough patches. This reduces water loss (TEWL) and makes the skin feel softer and more supple.
Is Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate safe for most people?
Considered safe for use in cosmetics at typical concentrations. Low irritation and comedogenic potential. No significant safety concerns reported in regulatory reviews.
Who should be careful with Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate?
Individuals with extremely oily or acne-prone skin may prefer lighter emollients like squalane
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.