Ingredient review
Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan
INCI: Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan
A gentle film-forming ingredient that helps lock in moisture and smooth the skin’s surface without clogging pores.
In plain English
This ingredient is a modified version of pullulan, a natural sugar-based polymer made from fermented starch. By attaching cholesterol and a hexyl group, it becomes better at forming a thin, flexible film on your skin. That film helps reduce water loss (like a gentle, invisible shield) and can make your skin feel smoother and more hydrated. It’s often used in moisturizers and serums for a soft, non-greasy finish.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Potentially useful with some tradeoffs
The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.
Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.
- Source
- semi synthetic
- Evidence
- moderate
- Irritation
- low
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Useful, but context matters
Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
lowLess likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
moderateThere is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.
What it is
A semi-synthetic polymer created by chemically bonding cholesterol and a hexyl chain to pullulan, a natural polysaccharide derived from the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans. This modification gives it film-forming and moisturizing properties.
How it works
When applied to the skin, it dries into a flexible, breathable film that sits on the surface. This film helps slow down water evaporation from the skin (reducing transepidermal water loss, or TEWL), which keeps your skin hydrated longer. It also fills in fine lines and uneven texture temporarily, giving a smoother appearance.
Pros
Gentle moisture lock
Creates a breathable film that reduces water loss without feeling heavy or sticky, making it suitable for sensitive skin.
Smoothing effect
Temporarily fills in fine lines and uneven texture, giving skin a more even, soft appearance under makeup or alone.
Cons and cautions
Temporary results
The smoothing and moisturizing effects are only present while the film is intact and wash off with cleansing, so it’s not a permanent fix.
May feel heavy for oily skin
In rich formulations, the film could feel slightly occlusive for those with very oily skin, potentially leading to a shiny look.
Best for
- People with dry or dehydrated skin looking for extra moisture retention
- Those who want a smoothing effect in their moisturizer or serum
Use caution if
- Individuals with very oily or acne-prone skin might prefer lighter humectants like glycerin
Usage tips
Safety summary
Considered safe for topical use with low irritation and comedogenic potential. No significant safety concerns reported in cosmetic concentrations.
Research notes
Limited but positive evidence supports its moisturizing and film-forming benefits. Most data comes from ingredient supplier studies and cosmetic science literature.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- 0.5% to 3%
- Regulatory status
- Approved for use in cosmetics in the EU, US, and other major markets. No specific restrictions noted.
- Common uses
- Moisturizers, Serums, Anti-aging creams, Eye creams
- Environmental note
- Pullulan is derived from renewable starch fermentation, but the chemical modification process may involve synthetic steps. Biodegradability data is limited.
Good to know
- Pullulan is a natural polysaccharide often used in food and cosmetics, and this modified version enhances its film-forming ability.
- This ingredient is often found in ‘second skin’ or ‘film-forming’ products that aim to create a smooth, hydrated surface.
Common questions
What is Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan in beauty products?
This ingredient is a modified version of pullulan, a natural sugar-based polymer made from fermented starch. By attaching cholesterol and a hexyl group, it becomes better at forming a thin, flexible film on your skin. That film helps reduce water loss (like a gentle, invisible shield) and can make your skin feel smoother and more hydrated. It’s often used in moisturizers and serums for a soft, non-greasy finish.
What does Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan do in a beauty product?
When applied to the skin, it dries into a flexible, breathable film that sits on the surface. This film helps slow down water evaporation from the skin (reducing transepidermal water loss, or TEWL), which keeps your skin hydrated longer. It also fills in fine lines and uneven texture temporarily, giving a smoother appearance.
Is Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan safe for most people?
Considered safe for topical use with low irritation and comedogenic potential. No significant safety concerns reported in cosmetic concentrations.
Who should be careful with Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan?
Individuals with very oily or acne-prone skin might prefer lighter humectants like glycerin
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.