Ingredient review
Brown No. 1
INCI: CI 12480
A safe, widely used synthetic colorant for brown shades, but offers no skincare benefits.
In plain English
CI 12480 is a synthetic pigment that gives cosmetics a brown color. It's like adding a drop of food coloring to your makeup—it doesn't do anything for your skin, it just makes the product look the way you expect. It's generally considered safe in the tiny amounts used, but if you prefer to avoid synthetic dyes, you might look for products with natural colorants like iron oxides.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Potentially useful with some tradeoffs
The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.
Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.
- Source
- synthetic
- Evidence
- moderate
- Irritation
- low
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Useful, but context matters
Brown No. 1 is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Brown No. 1.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
lowLess likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
moderateThere is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.
What it is
CI 12480 is a synthetic organic pigment, specifically a disazo dye, that is approved for use in cosmetics to impart a brown color. It is part of the Color Index (CI) system used to identify pigments and dyes.
How it works
It works by absorbing and reflecting specific wavelengths of light, which our eyes perceive as brown. When mixed into a cosmetic formula, it evenly disperses to create a uniform color. It does not interact with the skin's biology.
Pros
Color consistency
Provides a stable, predictable brown shade that doesn't fade or change easily in the product.
Regulatory approval
Approved by major regulators like the FDA and EU for use in cosmetics, with a long history of safe use.
Cons and cautions
No skin benefit
This ingredient is purely cosmetic—it adds color but does not hydrate, protect, or improve the skin in any way.
Synthetic origin
Made from petrochemicals, which may be a concern for consumers seeking natural or clean beauty products.
Best for
- Anyone looking for a reliable brown shade in makeup
- People who are not sensitive to synthetic colorants
Use caution if
- Those who prefer only natural or mineral-based colorants
- Individuals with known allergies to azo dyes (rare)
Usage tips
Safety summary
CI 12480 is considered safe for use in cosmetics at typical concentrations. It has low irritation and comedogenic potential. However, as with any colorant, rare allergic reactions are possible, especially in individuals sensitive to azo dyes.
Research notes
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel has reviewed similar azo dyes and found them safe for cosmetic use. No specific studies on CI 12480 were found, but its chemical class is well-studied and considered low-risk.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- Typically used at very low concentrations (less than 1%) to achieve desired color.
- Regulatory status
- Approved for use in cosmetics in the US (FDA) and EU (Annex IV of the Cosmetics Regulation) with no specific concentration limits, though general good manufacturing practices apply.
- Common uses
- Lipsticks, Eye shadows, Blushes, Nail polishes
- Environmental note
- As a synthetic pigment, its production involves petrochemicals and may have a higher environmental footprint compared to mineral pigments. It is not biodegradable.
Good to know
- CI 12480 is also known as D&C Brown No. 1 in some regions.
- It is often used in combination with other colorants to create custom shades.
Common questions
What is Brown No. 1 in beauty products?
CI 12480 is a synthetic pigment that gives cosmetics a brown color. It's like adding a drop of food coloring to your makeup—it doesn't do anything for your skin, it just makes the product look the way you expect. It's generally considered safe in the tiny amounts used, but if you prefer to avoid synthetic dyes, you might look for products with natural colorants like iron oxides.
What does Brown No. 1 do in a beauty product?
It works by absorbing and reflecting specific wavelengths of light, which our eyes perceive as brown. When mixed into a cosmetic formula, it evenly disperses to create a uniform color. It does not interact with the skin's biology.
Is Brown No. 1 safe for most people?
CI 12480 is considered safe for use in cosmetics at typical concentrations. It has low irritation and comedogenic potential. However, as with any colorant, rare allergic reactions are possible, especially in individuals sensitive to azo dyes.
Who should be careful with Brown No. 1?
Those who prefer only natural or mineral-based colorants Individuals with known allergies to azo dyes (rare)
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.