Ingredient review
Bis-HPMA Polyurethane Copolymer
INCI: BIS-HPMA POLY(1,4-BUTANEDIOL)-9/TMDI COPOLYMER
A synthetic film-former that helps makeup and hair products resist water and humidity, but may feel stiff or heavy on some.
In plain English
This is a man-made polymer that dries into a thin, flexible film on your skin or hair. It's like a clear, invisible shield that helps makeup stay put and hair hold its style, even in humid weather. Because it's water-resistant, it can be harder to wash off with just water and may require an oil-based cleanser.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Potentially useful with some tradeoffs
The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.
Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.
- Source
- synthetic
- Evidence
- moderate
- Irritation
- low
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Useful, but context matters
Bis-HPMA Polyurethane Copolymer is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Bis-HPMA Polyurethane Copolymer.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
lowLess likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
moderateThere is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.
What it is
A synthetic copolymer made from hydroxypropyl methacrylate (HPMA), poly(1,4-butanediol), and trimethyl hexamethylene diisocyanate (TMDI). It belongs to the polyurethane family and is designed to form a durable, flexible film.
How it works
When applied, the copolymer's molecules link together as the solvent (water or alcohol) evaporates, creating a continuous film. This film physically blocks water and oil from penetrating, while also locking in pigments or styling shapes. Its flexibility prevents cracking or flaking.
Pros
Excellent water resistance
Keeps makeup and sunscreen intact during sweating, swimming, or high humidity, reducing the need for frequent touch-ups.
Flexible film
Unlike some older polymers, this copolymer stays flexible, so it won't crack or feel like a stiff mask on your skin or hair.
Cons and cautions
Requires thorough removal
Because it's water-resistant, plain water or gentle cleansers may not remove it fully. You may need an oil-based or micellar cleanser to avoid buildup.
Potential for heaviness
On oily or combination skin, the film can feel heavy or contribute to a tacky sensation, especially in high-humidity conditions.
Best for
- People who need long-wear makeup or waterproof sunscreen
- Those with normal to dry skin who want a protective barrier
Use caution if
- Individuals with very oily or acne-prone skin who may find film-formers clogging
Usage tips
Safety summary
Considered safe for topical use at typical concentrations. The polymer is too large to penetrate the skin significantly. Rare reports of mild irritation or sensitivity exist, but overall risk is low.
Research notes
Limited independent studies on this specific copolymer; safety is inferred from similar polyurethane polymers used in medical devices and cosmetics. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has reviewed related polyurethanes and found them safe as used.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- 0.5% to 5% in leave-on products; up to 10% in hair sprays
- Regulatory status
- Approved for use in cosmetics in the EU, US, and other major markets. No specific concentration limits are set, but it must be listed on the ingredient label.
- Common uses
- Hair styling products, Waterproof mascara, Long-wear foundations, Sunscreen
- Environmental note
- As a synthetic polymer, it is not biodegradable and may accumulate in water systems. Some manufacturers are exploring bio-based alternatives.
Good to know
- This ingredient is often listed under trade names like 'Polyurethane-9' in some regions.
- It is commonly used in 'flexible hold' hair sprays and 'transfer-proof' lipsticks.
Common questions
What is Bis-HPMA Polyurethane Copolymer in beauty products?
This is a man-made polymer that dries into a thin, flexible film on your skin or hair. It's like a clear, invisible shield that helps makeup stay put and hair hold its style, even in humid weather. Because it's water-resistant, it can be harder to wash off with just water and may require an oil-based cleanser.
What does Bis-HPMA Polyurethane Copolymer do in a beauty product?
When applied, the copolymer's molecules link together as the solvent (water or alcohol) evaporates, creating a continuous film. This film physically blocks water and oil from penetrating, while also locking in pigments or styling shapes. Its flexibility prevents cracking or flaking.
Is Bis-HPMA Polyurethane Copolymer safe for most people?
Considered safe for topical use at typical concentrations. The polymer is too large to penetrate the skin significantly. Rare reports of mild irritation or sensitivity exist, but overall risk is low.
Who should be careful with Bis-HPMA Polyurethane Copolymer?
Individuals with very oily or acne-prone skin who may find film-formers clogging
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.