Ingredient review
Bis-HEMA Polyurethane Copolymer
INCI: BIS-HEMA POLY(1,4-BUTANEDIOL)-14/PEG-2/PPG-3/IPDI COPOLYMER
A synthetic film-former that helps makeup and sunscreen stay put without feeling heavy or sticky.
In plain English
This is a man-made polymer (a type of plastic) that dries into a thin, flexible film on your skin or hair. It's what makes your foundation last all day or your mascara resist smudging. Unlike some older film-formers, it's designed to be less stiff and more comfortable to wear.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Potentially useful with some tradeoffs
The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.
Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.
- Source
- synthetic
- Evidence
- moderate
- Irritation
- low
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Useful, but context matters
Bis-HEMA Polyurethane Copolymer is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Bis-HEMA Polyurethane Copolymer.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
lowLess likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
moderateThere is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.
What it is
A synthetic copolymer made from several building blocks: HEMA (a methacrylate), butanediol (a diol), PEG/PPG (polyethylene/polypropylene glycols), and IPDI (a diisocyanate). These combine to form a flexible polyurethane film.
How it works
When the water or solvent in the product evaporates, the polymer chains link together into a continuous film on the skin or hair. This film physically blocks water and oil, helping other ingredients (like pigments or UV filters) stay in place longer.
Pros
Long-lasting wear
Creates a durable film that helps makeup and sunscreen resist sweat, water, and rubbing, so you need fewer touch-ups.
Comfortable feel
Unlike older film-formers that can feel stiff or tight, this polymer is designed to be flexible and lightweight on skin.
Cons and cautions
Not natural
It's a fully synthetic polymer, which may be a dealbreaker if you prefer plant-based or biodegradable ingredients.
Potential tightness
In high concentrations or on very dry skin, the film can create a slight pulling sensation, especially around the eyes.
Best for
- Anyone wanting long-lasting makeup or sunscreen
- People with oily skin who need extra staying power
Use caution if
- Those who prefer exclusively natural or biodegradable ingredients
- Individuals with very sensitive skin who react to many film-formers (rare)
Usage tips
Safety summary
Generally recognized as safe for topical use. Rare reports of mild irritation in very sensitive individuals. No known carcinogenic or endocrine-disrupting effects at cosmetic use levels.
Research notes
Safety is supported by industry data and regulatory reviews. No recent peer-reviewed studies specifically on this exact copolymer, but the class of polyurethane film-formers is well-established in cosmetics.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- 1–10%
- Regulatory status
- Approved for use in cosmetics in the EU, US, and other major markets. No specific concentration limits are set, but it must be used according to good manufacturing practices.
- Common uses
- Long-wear foundations, Waterproof mascaras, Sunscreens, Hair styling products
- Environmental note
- As a synthetic polymer, it is not readily biodegradable. However, it is used in low concentrations and is not known to bioaccumulate.
Good to know
- This ingredient is often part of a blend and rarely appears alone on the label.
- It is considered safe for use in cosmetics by major regulatory bodies when used as directed.
Common questions
What is Bis-HEMA Polyurethane Copolymer in beauty products?
This is a man-made polymer (a type of plastic) that dries into a thin, flexible film on your skin or hair. It's what makes your foundation last all day or your mascara resist smudging. Unlike some older film-formers, it's designed to be less stiff and more comfortable to wear.
What does Bis-HEMA Polyurethane Copolymer do in a beauty product?
When the water or solvent in the product evaporates, the polymer chains link together into a continuous film on the skin or hair. This film physically blocks water and oil, helping other ingredients (like pigments or UV filters) stay in place longer.
Is Bis-HEMA Polyurethane Copolymer safe for most people?
Generally recognized as safe for topical use. Rare reports of mild irritation in very sensitive individuals. No known carcinogenic or endocrine-disrupting effects at cosmetic use levels.
Who should be careful with Bis-HEMA Polyurethane Copolymer?
Those who prefer exclusively natural or biodegradable ingredients Individuals with very sensitive skin who react to many film-formers (rare)
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.