Ingredient review
Bis-HEA Polybutylene Glycol/IPDI Copolymer
INCI: BIS-HEA POLY(1,4-BUTANEDIOL)-22/IPDI COPOLYMER
A synthetic film former that helps makeup and sunscreen stay put longer, but may feel tight on some skin types.
In plain English
This ingredient is a type of plastic-like polymer that forms a thin, flexible film on your skin or hair. It's commonly used in long-wear makeup and waterproof products to help them resist sweat, water, and rubbing off. Think of it as a clear, invisible shield that keeps your product in place.
Review score
Safety, usefulness, and evidence
Potentially useful with some tradeoffs
The evidence base is useful, but some claims depend heavily on the formula.
Risk flags are low for most users, though the finished product can still irritate.
- Source
- synthetic
- Evidence
- moderate
- Irritation
- low
- Clogging risk
- low
Quick decision guide
Useful, but context matters
Bis-HEA Polybutylene Glycol/IPDI Copolymer is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Bis-HEA Polybutylene Glycol/IPDI Copolymer.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
lowLess likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
moderateThere is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.
What it is
A synthetic copolymer made from butanediol and isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI), designed to create a durable yet flexible film on the skin or hair surface.
How it works
When applied, the polymer chains spread out and then link together as the solvent evaporates, forming a continuous, water-resistant film. This film helps other ingredients (like pigments or UV filters) adhere better and last longer.
Pros
Boosts product longevity
Helps makeup and sunscreen stay intact for hours, even in humid or sweaty conditions, so you don't need to reapply as often.
Water-resistant barrier
Creates a protective layer that resists water and sweat, making it ideal for waterproof mascaras and sport sunscreens.
Cons and cautions
Can feel tight or heavy
On dry or sensitive skin, the film may cause a tightening sensation or feel like a heavy layer, which some find uncomfortable.
Requires double cleansing
Because it forms a strong film, it may not wash off with a gentle cleanser alone, often needing an oil-based makeup remover first.
Best for
- People who want long-lasting, transfer-resistant makeup
- Those who need water-resistant sunscreen for outdoor activities
Use caution if
- Individuals with very dry or eczema-prone skin who may find film formers uncomfortable
Usage tips
Safety summary
Generally considered safe for topical use in cosmetics at typical concentrations. Rare reports of mild irritation exist, but it is not a common sensitizer. Always patch test if you have reactive skin.
Research notes
Limited independent studies specifically on this copolymer, but the broader class of polyurethane film formers has been reviewed by the CIR panel and deemed safe. Most evidence comes from manufacturer safety data.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- 0.5% to 5%
- Regulatory status
- Approved for use in cosmetics in the EU, US, and many other regions. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel has evaluated similar polyurethane film formers and found them safe as used.
- Common uses
- Long-wear foundations, Waterproof mascaras, Sunscreens, Hair styling products
- Environmental note
- As a synthetic polymer, it is not biodegradable. However, it is used in small amounts and is not known to accumulate in the environment at concerning levels.
Good to know
- This polymer is often listed under the broader category of 'polyurethanes' in cosmetics.
- It is not the same as the isocyanates used in industrial settings; cosmetic-grade IPDI copolymers are considered safe at low concentrations.
Common questions
What is Bis-HEA Polybutylene Glycol/IPDI Copolymer in beauty products?
This ingredient is a type of plastic-like polymer that forms a thin, flexible film on your skin or hair. It's commonly used in long-wear makeup and waterproof products to help them resist sweat, water, and rubbing off. Think of it as a clear, invisible shield that keeps your product in place.
What does Bis-HEA Polybutylene Glycol/IPDI Copolymer do in a beauty product?
When applied, the polymer chains spread out and then link together as the solvent evaporates, forming a continuous, water-resistant film. This film helps other ingredients (like pigments or UV filters) adhere better and last longer.
Is Bis-HEA Polybutylene Glycol/IPDI Copolymer safe for most people?
Generally considered safe for topical use in cosmetics at typical concentrations. Rare reports of mild irritation exist, but it is not a common sensitizer. Always patch test if you have reactive skin.
Who should be careful with Bis-HEA Polybutylene Glycol/IPDI Copolymer?
Individuals with very dry or eczema-prone skin who may find film formers uncomfortable
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.