Ingredient review
Ammonium Glycyrrhizate
INCI: AMMONIUM GLYCYRRHIZATE
A gentle, licorice-derived ingredient that helps calm irritated skin and reduce redness without harsh side effects.
In plain English
Ammonium glycyrrhizate is a compound taken from licorice root. In skincare, it works like a natural fire extinguisher for your skin — it helps calm down redness, irritation, and inflammation. It's often used in products for sensitive or reactive skin because it's very gentle and unlikely to cause problems. Think of it as a soothing helper that doesn't dry out or clog pores.
Quick decision guide
Easy yes for most routines
Ammonium Glycyrrhizate is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.
Plain-English read
Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.
- Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Ammonium Glycyrrhizate.
- Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
- Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.
Score terms in plain English
Irritation risk
lowLess likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.
Clogging risk
lowLess likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.
Evidence level
moderateThere is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.
What it is
Ammonium glycyrrhizate is the ammonium salt of glycyrrhizic acid, a key active compound found in licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra). It is a water-soluble, pale yellow powder used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.
How it works
It works by inhibiting enzymes that trigger inflammatory responses in the skin, such as cyclooxygenase and lipoxygenase. This reduces the production of pro-inflammatory molecules, helping to calm redness, swelling, and irritation. It also has mild antioxidant activity, protecting skin from environmental stressors.
Pros
Gentle on skin
Ammonium glycyrrhizate has a very low irritation and comedogenic risk, making it suitable for even the most sensitive skin types, including those prone to rosacea or eczema.
Multi-functional soother
It not only calms redness but also provides mild antioxidant benefits, helping to protect skin from daily environmental stressors without extra irritation.
Cons and cautions
Limited potency
While effective for mild irritation, ammonium glycyrrhizate may not be strong enough to address severe inflammatory skin conditions on its own.
Less researched than alternatives
Compared to ingredients like niacinamide or panthenol, there is less clinical research specifically on ammonium glycyrrhizate in cosmetic formulations.
Best for
- People with sensitive or easily irritated skin
- Those dealing with occasional redness or inflammation
- Anyone looking for a gentle soothing ingredient in their routine
Use caution if
- Individuals with a known allergy to licorice or related plants
Usage tips
Safety summary
Ammonium glycyrrhizate is considered safe for topical use in cosmetics at typical concentrations. It has a low risk of irritation or allergic reaction, making it suitable for sensitive skin. Avoid if you have a known allergy to licorice.
Research notes
Research supports its anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, primarily through inhibition of pro-inflammatory enzymes. Most studies are in vitro or small-scale human trials; larger clinical studies are limited but consistent with its traditional use.
Common label clues
- Typical concentration
- 0.1% to 2%
- Regulatory status
- Approved for use in cosmetics by the FDA and EU CosIng database as a safe skin-conditioning agent. No known restrictions.
- Common uses
- Serums, Moisturizers, Toner, Masks, Eye creams
- Environmental note
- Licorice root is a renewable plant source, but overharvesting can be a concern. Look for brands that source sustainably.
Good to know
- Ammonium glycyrrhizate is water-soluble, so it works well in gel-based or lightweight formulas.
- It is often used in post-procedure skincare to help reduce irritation from treatments like chemical peels or microdermabrasion.
Common questions
What is Ammonium Glycyrrhizate in beauty products?
Ammonium glycyrrhizate is a compound taken from licorice root. In skincare, it works like a natural fire extinguisher for your skin — it helps calm down redness, irritation, and inflammation. It's often used in products for sensitive or reactive skin because it's very gentle and unlikely to cause problems. Think of it as a soothing helper that doesn't dry out or clog pores.
What does Ammonium Glycyrrhizate do in a beauty product?
It works by inhibiting enzymes that trigger inflammatory responses in the skin, such as cyclooxygenase and lipoxygenase. This reduces the production of pro-inflammatory molecules, helping to calm redness, swelling, and irritation. It also has mild antioxidant activity, protecting skin from environmental stressors.
Is Ammonium Glycyrrhizate safe for most people?
Ammonium glycyrrhizate is considered safe for topical use in cosmetics at typical concentrations. It has a low risk of irritation or allergic reaction, making it suitable for sensitive skin. Avoid if you have a known allergy to licorice.
Who should be careful with Ammonium Glycyrrhizate?
Individuals with a known allergy to licorice or related plants
Research sources
Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.