Ingredient review

Allantoin Glycyrrhetinate

INCI: ALLANTOIN GLYCYRRHETINIC ACID

A gentle, dual-action ingredient that soothes irritation and supports skin repair without clogging pores.

beautyskincaresoothing agent

In plain English

Allantoin glycyrrhetinic acid is a combination of two calming ingredients: allantoin, which helps soften and heal the skin, and glycyrrhetinic acid, a compound from licorice root that reduces redness and irritation. Together, they work to calm sensitive or stressed skin, making it a common choice for products aimed at soothing after sun exposure, shaving, or professional treatments.

Quick decision guide

Easy yes for most routines

Allantoin Glycyrrhetinate is generally a lower-concern ingredient when the full formula suits your skin.

Plain-English read

Treat this as a practical screening step before you compare products that contain this ingredient.

  1. Step 1Start with the score, then check the irritation and clogging risk before judging Allantoin Glycyrrhetinate.
  2. Step 2Use the "Best for" and "Use caution if" sections to match the ingredient to your skin, not just to a marketing claim.
  3. Step 3If a product stings, breaks you out, or worsens irritation, judge the finished formula and stop using it even if the ingredient scores well.

Score terms in plain English

Irritation risk

low

Less likely to sting, burn, or bother most users, though sensitive skin can still react.

Clogging risk

low

Less likely to feel heavy or contribute to clogged pores for most skin types.

Evidence level

moderate

There is useful support, but formula details and claim strength still matter.

What it is

A semi-synthetic compound formed by combining allantoin (a skin-soothing agent often derived from comfrey or synthesized) with glycyrrhetinic acid (a triterpenoid from licorice root). It is used in cosmetics for its anti-irritant and skin-conditioning properties.

How it works

Allantoin promotes gentle exfoliation of dead skin cells and supports wound healing, while glycyrrhetinic acid inhibits enzymes that trigger inflammation. Together, they reduce visible redness, calm stinging or itching, and help restore the skin barrier.

Pros

Gentle on sensitive skin

Low irritation and comedogenic risk make it suitable for even the most reactive skin types, including rosacea-prone skin.

Dual-action soothing

Combines exfoliation support from allantoin with anti-inflammatory action from glycyrrhetinic acid for comprehensive calming.

Cons and cautions

Modest evidence for combined form

Most studies focus on the individual components rather than the combined compound, so the synergy is less documented.

Not a heavy-duty anti-inflammatory

For severe inflammatory skin conditions like eczema or psoriasis, stronger prescription treatments may be needed.

Best for

  • People with sensitive or reactive skin
  • Those recovering from mild chemical peels or laser treatments

Use caution if

  • Individuals with known allergy to licorice or allantoin (rare)

Usage tips

Apply after cleansing and before heavier creams to maximize absorption.
Use consistently for at least 2–4 weeks to see cumulative soothing benefits.

Safety summary

Considered safe for topical use at typical cosmetic concentrations. Rare allergic reactions are possible but very uncommon. Avoid contact with eyes.

Research notes

Individual components (allantoin and glycyrrhetinic acid) have moderate evidence for soothing and anti-inflammatory effects. Few studies specifically test the combined compound in humans.

Common label clues

Typical concentration
0.1% to 0.5%
Regulatory status
Approved as a cosmetic ingredient in the EU, US, and many other regions. Not classified as a drug ingredient.
Common uses
Soothing creams, Post-procedure balms, Sensitive skin moisturizers
Environmental note
Typically synthesized in labs, reducing the need for plant harvesting. Production is generally low-impact.

Good to know

  • Often found in post-procedure skincare to calm skin after microdermabrasion or light chemical peels.
  • Can be combined with other soothing ingredients like aloe or oat extract for enhanced comfort.

Common questions

What is Allantoin Glycyrrhetinate in beauty products?

Allantoin glycyrrhetinic acid is a combination of two calming ingredients: allantoin, which helps soften and heal the skin, and glycyrrhetinic acid, a compound from licorice root that reduces redness and irritation. Together, they work to calm sensitive or stressed skin, making it a common choice for products aimed at soothing after sun exposure, shaving, or professional treatments.

What does Allantoin Glycyrrhetinate do in a beauty product?

Allantoin promotes gentle exfoliation of dead skin cells and supports wound healing, while glycyrrhetinic acid inhibits enzymes that trigger inflammation. Together, they reduce visible redness, calm stinging or itching, and help restore the skin barrier.

Is Allantoin Glycyrrhetinate safe for most people?

Considered safe for topical use at typical cosmetic concentrations. Rare allergic reactions are possible but very uncommon. Avoid contact with eyes.

Who should be careful with Allantoin Glycyrrhetinate?

Individuals with known allergy to licorice or allantoin (rare)

Research sources

CosIng Database - Allantoin Glycyrrhetinic AcidOpenPubMed - Anti-inflammatory activity of glycyrrhetinic acidOpenSafety Assessment of Allantoin - CIROpen

Ingredient reviews are educational and are not medical advice. Patch test new products and ask a licensed clinician about persistent irritation, allergies, pregnancy-specific questions, or diagnosed skin conditions.